11/10/21 ~ Kilkenny to Jekyll Island, GA

Today:           72.0 miles              10.6 hours          ICW ST Mile: 613
Total:            832.2 miles           217.25 hours

     We had to wait for nautical twilight and was underway by 6:30. It was a magnificent sunrise. Temps in the mid-50 and winds were fairly still. Pete navigated through low tide in the Kilkenny River. There was nothing less than 9 feet under the keel following the deepest contours. Since the GPS isn’t working, we couldn’t follow yesterday’s tracks.

 

  

 

 

Dawn from First Light to Sunrise ~ Absolutely Breathtaking!

     Passing St Catherine’s Sound, we could see and feel the ocean swells, but they were only about a foot now that they are dissipating.
     Doboy Sound we saw a fisherman coming in, outriggers out, no nets, but plenty of birds, all over including the cabin top!

 

     Going through Little Mud River at high tide wasn’t a problem. We had 10 feet under keel. Low tide would have been an entirely different matter. With 9 foot tide, and 5 foot keel, we’d be in a really bad way! No way could we travel through it.

 

The last of the GOLDEN RAY has been removed

     Jekyll Creek has on spot in front of the closed dock where, at low tide, we would have been sitting on the mud. We did well today, with all the ebbs and flows from the inlets, the current gods were with us for the better part of the day . . and no skinny water!!!

Bridge Fender & Friends
Jekyll Creek

  
     When we called for dock assignment, surprisingly, we were directed to the inside slips. As we rounded the end of the dock, the depth gage showed 4.5 feet. No way could we possibly leave at low tide in the morning. Thankfully, we were directed to the fuel dock with the stipulation that we be gone before 8am opening. No problem.
     Once docked, Pete had a conference call until 6:15.

     Pete insisted on staying at the helm due to the tricky spots. No just the shallows, which weren’t a problem due to high tide, but also the swirls in the currents that make steering a challenge. Needless to say, a long, intense day plus a challenging work project made for a very tired person. He fell asleep after dinner, and I had to wake him at bedtime. He had no problems falling back to sleep.

 

     Sunset was stunning!

~ ~ ~ /) ~ ~    K & P

11/9/21 ~ Thunderbolt to Kilkenny, GA

Today:           30.6 miles           5.0 hours           ICW ST Mile: 613
Total:           760.2 miles      206.65 hours

  
Views from Thunderbolt Marina ~

The docks, the debris on the river, a boat on a soft float, and pelican taking off

 

     We were awake around 7 so we figured we’d leave considerably earlier than 9. I walked Bailey as Pete did an engine check. I came back to find Pete grumbling and poking around the engine. The other day, when he cleaned out the sea chest, he cut his arm when closing the through hull valve to the engine. He figured that when the new heat exchanger was installed one of the hose clamps was now in the way. We’ll. . . Pete found out that the mounts to the heat exchanger had broken and the entire unit was sitting on the engine AND the transmission! Thankfully, he found it before it caused problems. He didn’t have the proper size, heavy duty clamps, but did have hose clamps that worked. The question remains: Why? Pete is positive that the vibration is coming from the engine mounts. They have been repeatedly checked and repeatedly reported as still good. Pete spoke to Pedro in Ft Pierce about replacing them this winter.
     Jim, MV TWINS, stopped by as we were preparing to leave. “Twins” refers to his granddaughters, which are with him on this cruise. He told us about his stop on Daufuskie Island, north of the Savannah River. It is an up-and-coming place; vibe is very “Key West.” Locals come to hang out. He helped us away from the dock at 8:40.

Dock house south of the marina

     We were passed by a beautiful Down Eastern power boat. They proceeded to just meander. As we started to pass them, they moved in front of us again. Pete slowed down to let them pass. They then started to head towards a creek to port, but then changed their minds. They then paralleled us on the ICW and then finally accelerated!     It was great cruising in the high 8s with the current on the Skillaway River. We had no problem with Hell’s Gate. We went through at almost high. We are still seeing unusually high tides. Those who know say it will take a few days to return to normal.

  

Georgia's ICW

 
     Kilkenny is 17 miles from Thunderbolt as the crow flies. It is 36 miles as the rivers flow!!! 2.5 hours vs 5+ hours with the ebb and flow of the various currents.

     It was a day for great nature watching:

Eagle pair with their huge nest

Dolphins

 

Eagle Pair, Egrets in the bush, and landing

 
White Pelicans and Brown in flight

  

Fisherman in the high waters

     I walked dog and was awed by the Live Oak next to the office. She is huge. Staff said that “those who know such things suspect the tree is over 450 years old. Can you imagine the history it has been witness to?”

 Magnificent 450 + year old Live Oak Tree

 
Views of Kilkenny Marina

     Pete had to work and there was an important conference call at 4 he had to attend. It was very hard to get and keep a signal. Pete put the MiFi in a dry bag and sent it up the mast. He then went ashore for his conference call. No problem with signal, but plenty of problems with the midges! 

     Once back on board, he checked engine. One of the 2 clamps placed on the heat exchanger already broke after 4.5 hours of use! He put 2 new clamps to join the one still holding. When he can, he will order a lot of extra clamps in the size he needs to hold it in place until Ft Pierce. Unfortunately, it is in a terrible spot to work on. His hands and arms are all scratched.

~ ~ ~ /) ~ ~ K & P

11/8/21 ~ Beauford SC to Thunderbolt, GA

Today:          46.1 miles           7.8 hours           ICW ST Mile: 582.4
Total:          729.6 miles      201.65 hours
 

   Before we pulled away from the dock, we had a chance to talk with the crew moving a 70 MCY, MY 24/7, one of the boats on out “Lottery Win Dream Boats” list. The owners of a sister ship love this boat so much, they were one of the first to order a new one with the enclosed bridge. (That one is higher up on our wish list!)
 

   We departed by 7:30 in order to be at SH Port Royal Marina at 8, when they open. We need fuel. The dock master was there to answer our hail at 7:50 even though they don’t open until 8. The super high tides pinched wires for power to the southern docks. She had to meet the electrician earlier. She helped us dock and handed us the diesel nozzle to pump as she helped 2 other boats depart. We still hadn’t pumped when she returned due to a different flow switch, which had been turned off during the extreme high tides and not yet turned back on. As a result, we didn’t leave their dock until 8:45. That was a concern as we have to make the 4pm opening of Causton Bluff Bridge before they close it for 2 hours due to traffic.
     The run down the Beauford River was very slow (4.9. - 5.4 mph due to the incoming tide.) We had the current crossing Port Royal Sound. It was nice doing 8+ even if it is only for a short while. We actually cruised at 9.1-9.4 mph on the New & Cooper Rivers, Walls & Fields Cuts.
 

Safe Harbor Thunderbolt Marina

 
   Once docked, I fed and took Bailey for a walk while Pete worked until 6. After dinner, we just chilled.
     We only have about a 4.5-hour cruise to Kilkenny, so we won’t have to leave at sunrise.

~ ~ ~ /) ~ ~   K & P

10/31/21 ~ St Johns to Beauford SC ~ Another Lengthy Stay

Sunday, 10/31/21 
Today:           63.5 miles           9.6 hours           ICW ST Mile: 472.6
Total:           683.5 miles      193.85 hours

     Departed a little before 7:30, sunrise shortly after. In another two weeks we will be adjusting our clocks and sunrise will be earlier. . .but so will sunset! Cruising in the fall, we have to deal with days getting shorter. Cruising in the spring means longer daylight, which is easier on the planning.
Today's temps were in the mid-50’s and breezes light from the SSW; clear, with just a few light clouds. Quite a few cruisers were on the move heading south. The two northbound boats were probably locals on weekend excursions.
     A sports fish slowed twice in area where aids moved courtesy of Bob’s Tracts. The tracts  previously that appeared to for travel over land for a brief period of time after turning into Edisto River.
     It was a day of “Push me – Pull you” between all the inlets. Watts Cut was the shallowest with 1.3 under our keel at dead low tide. Ashepoo Cut Off was no lower than 12 feet (of course it was at a much higher tide.) Today the current gods were kind.  After the first 2 hours of doing 6+ mph, we caught most of the currents and enjoyed cruising in the high 7's and low 8.  We did hit 9 mph for about 10 minutes, but it still felt great!
     A little further south, we passed Morgan Island, which NORTH STAR was going to anchor off of. We never knew it was locally known as “Monkey Island.” The following is from The Charleston Today’s website:

  
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3,500 Free-Ranging Monkeys ~ The story of S.C.’s Monkey Island
AUG 21 2018 / Jen Ashley
     Picture this: It was the summer of ‘79. Jimmy Carter was president; Margaret Thatcher had just become the first female Prime Minister of the U.K.; + Pink Floyd was getting ready to release, “The Wall.” Oh, and 1,400 rhesus monkeys were shipped to an island in South Carolina.
     Those monkeys (or their descendants, rather) can still be found on Morgan Island, which sits off the coast of Beaufort. Today, the colony’s population has grown to nearly 4,000. The primates enjoy a lifestyle, not unlike that of Charlestonians: their population is female-dominant (it’s 75% ladies on Morgan Island vs. 52% in Charleston), they can often be found on the beach (except when it’s too hot outside), + they’ve witnessed the property value of their home skyrocket in recent years (the island sold for a staggering $20.5 million in 2002– though we’re told the monkeys were not on the hook to pay for it).
Why’d the monkeys come here in the first place?

     The colony came from a primate research center in La Parguera, Puerto Rico, traveling 1,300 miles to Morgan Island, S.C.– where they were re-established as a free-range colony, and bred to fulfill the needs of biomedical researchers.
     Before the monkeys relocated, various social groups existed within their colony. When they were shipped, those social groups were broken up. But get this: after arriving on the island, the monkeys proceeded to re-establish those same groups. In other words– even monkeys know how to keep in touch with their loved ones, so you have no excuse… Call your mom.
How can you visit Monkey Island?
      Here’s the thing: the first rule of Monkey Island is that you can’t actually visit Monkey Island. This is an important rule to follow, for a few reasons:
     - The monkeys prefer to enjoy a natural, undisrupted habitat
     - Humans are gross– a.k.a. they may be carrying diseases that could potentially be transmitted to the monkeys
     Monkeys are wild animals– and although they may seem cute– they can pack a serious punch (and getting attacked by a monkey isn’t a cool scar story when said monkey weighs 15 lbs.)
     If that doesn’t sway you– those who get caught could be arrested for trespassing.
Says who?
     Says the South Carolina Department of Natural Resources. The department owns + maintains Morgan Island. It was acquired as part of a collective effort to better protect natural resources along the ACE Basin, called the ACE Basin Project.
     Morgan Island is about 4,000 acres in size. DNR leases 400 acres of that to Charles River Laboratories, Inc.– and that’s where the monkeys live.
     While CRL takes care of the monkeys, the colony is actually owned by the National Institute of Allergy + Infectious Diseases (which is part of the National Institutes of Health). The monkeys used as part of research aimed at developing preventions + treatments for diseases affecting the public. None of that research takes place on the island, though.
So… is there any way to see them?

     Up close, maybe not. But, if you’re going bananas over the idea of seeing Monkey Island in person, you can always boat to the area.
     According to Bluffton resident + self-proclaimed Monkey Island guru Matt Richardson, your best bet is to launch from the Eddings Point Boat Landing on St. Helena Island. It’s less than 5 miles away from Morgan Island + open to the public year-round.
      Pro tip: Consult a local tour guide or beforehand. They may be able to go with you to make sure your expedition goes off without a hitch.

~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~

     We passed through the Ladies Island Bridge around 4:30 and tied to the main dock by 5. NORTH STAR is at the opposite end. It turns out, Mary & Bill were sitting on the swings along the water front and have video of PEKABU exiting the bridge.

  After straightening up and making the log entry, we sat in the cockpit talking to dock mates as they passed. For the first time in many, many years, we had a family of Trick-or-Treaters! A family from Montreal in costumes (including the dog) was heading into town for Beaufort’s Halloween Party on Main Street. I was so glad we keep a bag of Milky Ways on board! 

Our favorite Trick-or-Treaters back in PA!
(Thanks, Kel!)

          We are looking at weather ahead for our planned jump around Georgia on Wednesday and it looks like our window is closing. We discussed options and will check again in the morning. If it’s a no-go, we will stay here for the week. For some reason, there are no vacancies south of here for the next few days. Going through the Georgia’s Sounds, so close to the ocean, with winds 25-30 mph, is no fun at all! Pete made sure he discussed our observations and concerns with Bill & Mary. They head out in the morning for Savannah and will probably hang out there more than the 2 days that were planned. We’ll be touching base periodically during the week.

Monday, 11/1/21 Beauford ~ Day 2 ~

     When Pete walked the dog, he had a chance to speak with the dock hands about staying for the week. One will get back after checking with the harbor master.
     Around 11:30, we moved to the inside of the dock as the pervious boats left. So, we are good for the next week and reservations for Harbortown and Fernandina were cancelled. We’ll watch the weather and remake the reservations later in the week.
     I did chores while Pete worked.
     Just before dinner I was able to catch a magnificent sunset~

 

 

Tuesday, 11/2/21  Beauford ~ Day 3 

    Sky were pretty cloudy when we got up. As the morning progressed the clouds disappeared. Temps rose into the mid 70’s, with the breezes barely present.

     After taking care of a few things on board, I left to take a walk while Pete and George worked. I found Beauford River Glass, which has an amazingly colorful, and diverse items . . .All in glass; Hand blown Christmas Balls from Kitras, wall art of layered glass that create scenes, The ceiling is covered with blown glass plates. The store is full of glass cutting boards, bowls, mugs, pen holders and of course jewelry.
    I was checking out a kitchen supply store when Kay returned my call. Somehow, we couldn’t hold onto the call by the shops, so I walked to the water front, claimed on off the swings, and we spent a good 45 minutes catching up. By the time we said out goodbyes, it was lunch time.  I headed back to the boat knowing that Pete would be too busy to think of lunch.

  

      After lunch I settled in the cockpit with my computer and updated the blog without photos.  I am still investigating what the problem might be.  Hopefully, tomorrow I will be able to upload them, or at least continue trying to find the problem. Truthfully, I think it might be the iPhone photo format even though they have been saved as a jpeg.  Again, research continuing.
     Dinner was the wonderful salmon I bought in Georgetown. I made it with the peppers, dried apricots, onions seasoned with Maple Syrup. It is one of our favorite dinners!

Wednesday, 11/3/21   Beauford ~ Day 4
     Today I got my exercise in. I exercised onboard in the am while waiting for temps to climb into the 60’s. Then I cleaned & polished all the stainless. It took all afternoon.
     Pete is still swamped with work,

Thursday, 11/4/21   Beauford ~ Day 5
     The temps dropped into the mid-40s and breezes increased 10-15 mph out of the NNW. It was raw outside. Not many people where on the move. Only the bigger yachts with the crew moving the boats south for the winter.
     I spent the afternoon working on photos. Was able to upload only a few, before Pete had problems with conferences. Photos are organized. Hopefully, I’ll be able to weed and process the majority of them tomorrow and upload on Saturday, when Pete doesn’t need the band width. Marina has WiFi, but it has a major problem with service to our dock right now.

Friday, 11/5/21 Beauford ~ Day 6
 

Screen Shot
from WINDY

   Windy (10-20 mph) cloudy and raw. Temps in low 60’s, but it feels colder. Windy App shows red (40+ mph) close to shore and a definite “no go” for Monday. I was able to move reservations at Hilton Head and Fernandina, extended at Beauford. I am sure hundreds of other cruisers are doing the same.

     Pete worked all day. I just processed photos.

 
Saturday, 11/6/21 Beauford ~ Day 7
     Rainy, windy, raw again. Winds 35-50 just offshore, with wave heights 10-12 feet. I found out that the starboard window is still leaking. I will have to wait until things are dry before doing a patch again.
     We pulled up the flooring so that Pete could clean the bilge. He also cleaned the sea chest and checked engine.
     I was able to process and started posting photos to the blog, FINALLY!!! I have found out that for some reason once I finish with a post, I need to close and reopen the blog to post photos to the next entry. I promise I won’t complain as I can finally finish up the previous postings.

Sunday, 11/7/21 Beauford ~ Day 8
     I investigated & ordered groceries from Publix to be delivered. The cost of an UBER, if we can find one, is more than the slightly inflated prices and minor delivery charge. It was definitely a win-win for us. There were a number of things we would have run out of if we didn’t provision now.
 

  
30 minutes after high tide

 

   I also did laundry. While walking up the dock to land, the ramp was a step up and then a step down onto the raised access on land. It was an extremely high tide that over ran the sea wall and flooded the parking lots. Thankfully, it was already starting to recede, and I was able to walk on non-flooded surfaces in a very round-about fashion.
     By about 4 the clouds cleared, winds abated greatly and the waters returned to normal levels. Offshore remains a mess. Pete changed reservations again. There is no way we can safely make the jump around Georgia. As a result, we start heading through Georgia tomorrow. We were lucky on reservations as everyone is backed up. The Alligator Bridge has been closed since Friday due to winds. Coinjock is completely full on both sides of the canal. There has also been a closing on the RR Bridge in Norfolk that has backed things up in Norfolk.

 
5 hours after high tide ~ 9 foot less water!

     Pete was able to spend the afternoon reading after checking the engine. I worked on posting photos to the blog.

   Around 5, we walked over to the main street. The water height was much different than when I came over to do laundry. Now the dock was about 9 feet down from the top of the sea wall. We enjoyed a great lasagna dinner at Hearth Wood Fired Pizza. The place was packed when we left at 6:15.

     After dinner I was able to do some more. I have put up photos through Southport! By 10 pm, I have only 5 more entries that need photos inserted. Now, I wait for good internet to continue posting. It will probably be a while.
     With the time change last night. We are both tired. Tomorrow is an early departure.

~ ~ /) ~ ~  K & P