Coinjock to Belhaven, NC

Today:  89 miles, 12.25 hours, ICW St. M 135

Total:   316.2 miles, 44.5 hours

It was chilly sleeping last night.  Since we were the northern most boat on the dock, an extension was needed to be used for us to reach the 30-amp power.  We chose to run all systems but the heat, since that needs its own power source.  I grabbed an extra blanket during the night and Pete felt bad for Bailey, so he got up and placed a large towel over her as her coat was up in the cockpit. It was 44 degrees when the alarm when off.

  

We were up at 6 and departed at 6:30 am, just as the skies began to lighten. We were quiet, but the 5 other big boats preparing to depart were not. Dew on our windows were cleared, but unfortunately, reappeared shortly thereafter.  As we passed the 75-footer with thrusters starting to pull away from the dock, a crewman announced our position to his captain, but the captain decided to continue his exit anyway.  Thankfully, I was standing on the decks gathering all the lines and could direct Pete over to the western side of the channel.  Even as we were moving over, another large boat didn’t want to be caught behind our slow sailboat, so he decided to pass within 8 feet of PEKABU.

About three quarters of a mile from the marina, we entered a fog bank.  The large boat, with all it lights on in front of us, disappeared into the fog.  Thankfully, it was only a mile or so before the fog cleared. Since the dawn light continued to brighten, we were able to see patches of fog close to the tree lines, but not in the channel. Those five large power boats were history once we exited the fog.  As the sunrise continued to change in color and texture, we were passed by probably another 8 or 9 larger boats from the Coinjock dock over a 2-hour period.  There were only 2 other sailboats at the marina and we were the first to depart so they will probably catch up at one of the anchorages or marinas further south.

  

Once we entered Albemarle Sound, Pete raised the main and we increased our speed by 3/10 of a mile. It might only be 15 miles from Coinjock, but we never heard a request for the Alligator Pongo Bridge to open.  We were concerned, but finally heard a request when we were about 4 miles away.  We had no problems transiting the bridge opening when our time came. The Bridge is due to have maintenance begin in a week that will keep the bridge closed for about 2 weeks.

The breeze died for a brief while, then changed directions as they returned.  As Pete went to hoist the main again, it jammed.  It took a while for him to realize that the sail was loosely wound around the mast and had folded back upon itself.  Once he manipulated the sail and removed the looseness, the sail unfurled.  We increased speed by .5 miles.  Today, every little bit helps!

The blush of fall along the
Alligator Pongo Canal

While traversing the Alligator Pongo Canal, we were hailed by MV DANA O, a Norhaven from Wickford, RI. We couldn’t miss an opportunity to compare notes on Wickford.

Exiting the A/P Canal

At turns out that the sailboat that we have slowly been catching up to all day is the AQUINNAH from yesterday.  They opted to drop anchor in a creek further south than Coinjock. Shortly after speaking with (the Norhaven), AQUINNAH hailed us to give a heads up on a large deadhead in the center of the channel.  A little while later we discussed final destinations and the weather forecast for tomorrow.  A subtropical storm has formed in the Gulf of Mexico, has already crossed lower Florida and is now working its way along the coast.  It is going to meet up with a strong cold front tonight and will create some headaches from South Carolina north. 

AQUINNAH trying to beat the weather

"God rays" below and hints of blue
above the clouds  

We are heading into Belhaven and hopefully the municipal dock.  Pete had spoken with the Harbor master last night and he felt we should be good to tie up even at 6:30 pm. 

Feeling small below
the grandeur of these clouds

The skies decided to show some blue in between the heavy clouds and the sun played pee-ka-boo as it neared the horizon.  What a photo op!

Darkness descended before we approached the channel markers into Belhaven.  Thankfully, we have been here before and Pete is familiar with the entry to the municipal docks from when we were anchored, and Bailey needed to get to shore.  There are unlit, unmarked, pilings lining the entry.  Thankfully, at 6:45 pm, there was one spot left at the end of the dock. The boat in front of that area lit their running lights and came by to help us secure.  It turns out that the harbormaster was here logging in all the boats and was able to do us as well.

Beautiful, but ominous hit of the weather change to come!

Bailey and I took a long walk and once back at the dock we chatted with Mike and Tina from Ontario with their sailboat.  Pete joined us, but since all of us hadn’t eaten dinner, we went our separate ways to prepare dinner.  Ours was hot dogs, beans and hash browns, quick and satisfying after a long day. After relaxing a bit, we made it an early night after a long day, 89 miles!  And we can sleep in in the morning.  We are staying put so that the storm can pass before continuing our journey.

This cloudy day was bracketed by a sunrise and sunset that was beautiful surprises of moods, colors. textures, and intensity!

~~~/) ~~  K & P

Norfolk to Coinjock, NC

Today:  49 miles, 8 hours. ICW St. M 50

Total:   227.2 miles, 32.25 hours

Sunrise over the Navy in dry dock

Sunrise in Tidewater Marina
Portsmouth, VA

 We could take a little longer to head out this morning because we cannot pass through the Glimerton Bridge before 8:30 am due to commuter traffic restrictions.  It is five miles from Tidewater to the bridge, but we wanted to make sure we were there in plenty of time. Pete walked Bailey while I prepped for departure. The sun was rising as we exited the marina.  The air was cool, but not uncomfortable and clear. There was the usual traffic on the river: the ferry, barges and other cruising “snow birds” heading south.

Only a few cruisers anchored at
ICW St. M "0"

I love the scenery along the ICW!

We did good. We and 4 other boats had about 15 minutes to wait for the 8:30 opening of the bridge.  While waiting, the train came across the bridge just next to the Glimerton. Once it passed both bridges opened.  The Glimerton bridge keeper was able to announce once the bridge lifted vertically above 65 feet so the 3 sailboats could safely pass.

Entering the lock at Great Bridge

How far to...?

Waiting for the Bridge Opening

 I was really surprised that there are only 6 of us traveling the Virginia Cut, at this time. With the Dismal Swamp still closed, I just assumed that there would be many more boats traveling south on the only other inland cut.  The lock masters have always been friendly, and today was not an exception.  As we exited he wished us a great trip and will see us in the spring. He laughed when I said that “since we won’t see him until Easter, let me wish you a Happy Thanksgiving, Merry Christmas, Happy Hanukkah, Kwanzaa, and News Year!” and he wished us the same.

One of the 2 pairs of Eagles
 we saw today

Another species of
 large birds, but
misnamed a "Hornet"

  We spotted a few interesting birds as we continued our journey through the Virginia Cut.  There was a large flock of Canadian Geese coming in for a landing near the Great Bridge Bridge (No, this is not a mistake. "Bridge" is repeated twice in the title. )Lots of gulls, crows and Turkey Vultures, a Kingfisher crossing over the lock as we waited for the 2-foot tidal difference, plenty of F-16s Hornet  doing touch-and-goes, and a total of 5 Bald Eagles, two pairs in different trees, while further down one soared high above.

Through the lock and for the next 2 bridges, we followed SV AQUINNAH, a ketch with a crew of three.  Their hailing port was Odessa, Delaware, so of course we had to chat.  “Aquinnah” is the name of a sacred Indian hill on Cape Cod.  They didn’t get to say where they were from, but they are heading to New Bern, NC, moving the boat for a friend. It became obvious that they were not totally familiar with the boat.  They slowed for every major bend in the Cut, wandered back and forth across the channel, and speeds changed from 7 mph to 4.5 and everywhere in between.  While passing the flight zone for the Pentress, the Naval auxiliary landing field, not only were the jets doing touch and goes, but 2 small, Naval barges transporting crew and equipment were heading north.  AQUINNAH had to be hailed and requested to move to the west of the channel. We finally passed them and continued our steady cruising speed of 7.2 for most of the trip.

One of Two Naval barges

Graffiti on the the bridge house

Railroad bridge crossing
the Virginia Cut

A bi-level bird condo

 

Another small, fast Navy vessel

As we were entering Currituck Sound, we were passed by 2 additional Naval small, fast craft heading north. They are different than the intimidating ones by the naval docks.  These were only about 40 feet, camouflaged, with enclosed seating for 8 in high back seats with crisscross belts and an open cockpit.

Just before entering the cut to Coinjock, we were hailed by a tug and barge heading north.  He requested we stay far to the west of the channel even though he need to hug the red just ahead.  Pete took us to the west at idle, giving time for the barge to pass us.  Unfortunately, we went gently a ground.  Pete decide to let the barge pass before trying to free ourselves.  However, a 40-foot sports fisher obviously wasn’t listening to the radio nor used common sense when passing between the barge and us.  His wake bounced us off the bar and we were able to continue once the tug passed.  I still don’t think we should say thanks to that sport fisherman.

Martha photographed this
tree back in fall, 2010, but with
an eagle decorating its branch

Entering Coinjock from the North

We had reservations for Coinjock Marina.  It was a good thing.  We arrived at the same time as about 8 other boats. We were able to fill up with fuel before being directed to the northern most spot on the dock.  Two hours later there no space to be had on the dock.  It is a shame that Midway Marina, just across the channel only had one boat for the night. The prices are the same, but Midway Marina is a little “tried.”  I know that the restaurant at Coinjock Marina is a draw, but also with so many large boats, their fuel is probably, fresher (no sediment).  Bailey loves the large, grassy area for fetching the stick or ball and “nature calls.”

While I took Bailey for a walk, Pete was visited by Marty, of SV PEGASES, the boat we were docked near in Solomons. As I joined the conversations, it turns out the they keep the boat at Spring Cove and know John and Betty.  In fact, they were Trivial Pursuit partners at the marina. She and her husband are heading down to Palm Beach and then planning to jump over to the Abacos after Christmas.  This will be their 7^th trip over to the Bahamas.  They love it there.  Hopefully, we will continue to cross paths during our journey.

Pete was able to finish up his work and we had dinner around 6:30. After dinner I did more work on the blog, but didn’t get a chance to post.  Tomorrow will be an early start.  With a strong front coming through on Sunday, we want to be somewhere protected.  We have decided to leave just as the sky is lightening (nautical twilight is at 6:45 tomorrow morning.) We will skip the anchorage at the top of the Alligator Pongo River and head directly to Belhaven. It will be a long day with 12 hours of motoring.  Unfortunately, there is only 12 hours of sunlight, so it will be tight.  The good news is that the maintenance on the Alligator River Bridge is not due to start for another week, so we will have no problem transiting tomorrow. Next week it is scheduled to remain in the closed position from 7 am to 7 pm for almost 2 weeks! Yikes! 

Antipoison Creek to Norfolk, VA

Today:  59 miles, 8.25 hours ICW St. M “0”

Total:   178.2 miles, 24.25 hours

Bailey was walked, preparations for departure were completed, the anchor hauled, and we were underway by 7:10 am. We joined 4 other boats heading out of Fleets Bay. Clouds once again led to an unremarkable sunrise.  Once we resumed our southward journey, we passed 6 boats of the Menhaden fishing fleet, just south of the Maryland/Virginia boarder, close to the entrance of the Rappahannock River.

Between the wind and the current being in our favor for most of the trip, we once again made great time.  The winds were a bit more intense then yesterday.  The 2-3-foot waves came from our starboard aft quarter. However, there was another, longer wave that come from our port aft quarter. That one would roll the boat into the 5-6-foot trough. It made it quite a challenge to move around the boat.  Poor Bailey must not have felt to good.  She refused to eat anything or even move until things started to settle down around 2 when the winds dropped to 5-10 mph. Earlier in the day we averaged 8.6 mph. With the lighter winds and traveling against the current, we dropped to about 7 mph.

Can you find the 2 new fast boats?

Now can you see the scary naval boat?

 Pete had conference calls to make while we approached the Navy docks on the Elizabeth River, so I had the helm as we passed the most ominous, new, fast chase naval patrol boats.  There were two of them and they had to be about 50-foot-long, about 4-foot above the water, camouflaged, angled to be invisible and definitely built for speed! I guess you could say that they “looked mean and intimidating!”  

Working tugs on the Elizabeth River

Another use for the Elizabeth River

Around 3:30, we tied up to our assigned dock at Tidewater Yachting Center. Our dock hand informed us that the marina has a new restaurant and “there hasn’t been anything he has there that wasn’t really good!”  Unfortunately, I had dinner already prepped. Perhaps we will try it out on the return trip.  As Pete and Bailey went to settle up the bill, there were many dogie treats to be had.  Bailey was so excited to meet everyone and get her treats, that she was really terrible on her walk. This usually calm, steady, close walker, became a puller for the entire walk.  Pete did a lot of grumbling once they returned.  That grumbling intensified, when he went to bring up our ICW Chart book.  We finally identified something we left behind.  Both of us thought it was on board, but somehow, we must have taken it to the storage area earlier this summer when we were reorganizing. What we thought were the ICW charts are really the Bahamas books.  Pete quickly ordered a new one to be delivered to River Dunes.  I think we can make it that far without the book.

Sunset reflected on downtown Norfolk

The salt was rinsed off the boat and then Pete returned to finish up some work.  I cleaned up and started dinner.  The clear skies led to a golden cast to the buildings across the river.  As I took some photos, a bulk carrier photobombed my picture. 

After dinner, I downloaded photos and wrote more of the blog, but no time to post.  I have some minor processing to do to the photos. Hopefully, they will be done before we have good internet again.

Solomons to Antipoison Creek, VA

Today:  57 miles, 7.5 hours

Total:   119.2 miles, 16 hours

The unremarkable dawn

 We pulled away from the dock shortly after 7, towards the end of nautical twilight.  Sunrise was 7:24 am, but was disappointing.  Clouds obscured the sun rise.  The winds, which were out of the NNW 10-15 joined the very strong ebb current for a fast ride (at least for us!) We were averaging 8.4 mph while we had the current.  Once the current turned, we were only doing high 6’s.

Sunlight finally appeared as we left the cliffs
outside Solomons

We quickly felt the winds and cool temperatures on the Bay and the sun really wasn’t warming us.  It took only about 10 minutes to put up the enclosure and be warm and comfy.  I will never regret the frustration and lack of sleep while making it for our first cruise in 2010-11. Today proves the time was well spent!

As we crossed Fleets Bay, heading into Antipoison Creek, we encountered a large pod of dolphins.  We usually just see the arch of their beaks and backs as they surface. Today, the water was constantly agitated with their mating.  A few of the dolphins managed to get airborne! It was a rare treat and dazzling display.

The excited pod of dolphins

Dolphin putting on quite a show

There was only 1 other boat in the anchorage when we arrived.  She was about a 45’ steel ketch with a home port of London, England.  Her people spent a while on the beach.  However, once they returned, they pulled up anchor and headed further up the creek.  I wonder if they know something we don’t know?

Clouds above beach
at Antipoison Creek

 Antipoison Creek, off of Fleets Bay, is one of our favorite spots. Dan and Martha of SV BRUNELLE, introduced it to us on our journey north after our original cruise to the Bahamas in 2011.  This was the last stop for BRUNELLE, ANDIAMO and PEKABU before returning to our home ports and non-cruising lifestyles. It is easy access to the Bay, both to the north and the south.  The area is beautiful, the beach is fantastic, Bailey has a place to walk and run and I captured one of my favorite sunrises from here last year at this time!  The anchor was dropped abound 2:30 pm, which left plenty of time for Pete to complete work and me to bake 4 small loaves of banana nut bread.  Boy, did PEKABU smell great!  The heat from the oven also helped to keep the boat warm overnight as the temperatures are predicted to drop to 44 degrees by sunrise. 

Sunset tonight

After dinner, which was the leftovers from Sunday’s dinner with Betty and John…YUM!!!, it was decedent to watch TV while at anchor.  It has taken a tremendous effort and time commitment over the past year to get the KVH satellite system and the DISH system to work properly.  We had read all the information and we thought we had purchased the proper dome.  As it turns out, we had a bad dish and then a bad receiver. Both were replaced during our last cruise.  However, problems reemerged once back in our home port.  After many troubleshooting calls and emails, and eventually, a technician was sent to us doe what would up being a 4-hour visit.  It finally came to light, that the Annapolis area is in a “dead zone” for the satellites for the KVH 1.  They are too low on the horizon to maintain connection.  We eventually worked out a deal for the next size dome (KVH 3), which has no problems using and maintaining contact with a different set of satellites and providing uninterrupted coverage from Maine to Key West! We only have to call DISH to have the “home” stations changed for local service as we travel.

~~~ /) ~~  K & P

Good Thing We Stayed

The winds arrived as predicted around 2 am and the rains followed about an hour later.  The winds probably reached 20+, while the heavy rains only lasted about an hour or two.  It was still windy in the morning, probably in the 10-15 mph here on shore, but they were 20+, out of the SSW on the Bay.  It was a smart move to stay put.  It meant I could take another walk to Weis, do some laundry and catch up with some friends by phone.  I can’t post to the blog as the Wi-Fi doesn’t stay connected. Pete worked down below as the Navy was using the area above our head as their landing approach to the Patuxent Naval Air Station.  The F-18, F-35, and A-10 are a wee bit noisy on their approaches.

More fall colors

 The strong, storm winds out of the south, pushed the water up the bay. As we watched the evening news, it was amazing to see the flooding in the downtown Annapolis.  They showed water up the steps to many of the stores by the waterfront.  The only time we have seen photos of more water in this area was during the historic flooding caused by Hurricane Isabel in 2003.  Those of us traveling south as the tides ebbs and the water recedes, will have a strong current pushing us down the Bay. Tomorrow should prove interesting.

~~~ /) ~~  K & P

Day Two in Solomons

Fall is definitely arriving!

Last of the summer blooms

The WiFi at the marina wouldn’t connect with our phones.  As I was heading up to the office for some help, I met Betty.  They will be leaving shortly as the mechanics arrived to make some repairs to ANDIAMO. Too soon we said our bitter sweet good-byes. Originally, they were planning to cruise with us, but Betty’s knee isn’t cooperating, and she need to continue with therapy.

With the weather warm and clear, I took advantage to walk up to Weis Market and True Value for a few last-minute items.  It was a good 3+ mile walk. Pete set up in the cockpit where he worked most of the day. Once back, I did some chores and read.  By dinner, the clouds had arrived, and the breezes picked up.

~~~ /) ~~  K & P

Castle Harbor to Solomons, Md.

 59.2 miles, 8.5 hours

The great plans we had to complete things over the summer never materialized. Between family and friend obligations, the heat, Pete’s work and my not feeling 100%, many projects are now postponed until next year. The doctor has given me the OK to travel, we have said our good-byes to our family and friends, everything we should need for the trip has been loaded onboard, the provisioning complete, the boat cleaned and organized. I think we are ready.

Hopefully, Mother Nature will cooperate.  She has demonstrated her might powers over the past few months. Over the summer, horrific fires have devastated parts of Montana and California. Closer to home, in July, a water spout traveled across the breakwater to our marina and a week later an F-2 tornado destroyed a neighborhood about a mile from our marina, took out a string of power lines and wreaked havoc on many boat canvases, trees and pool in our marina. It was an unbelievably frightening 30 minutes of severe lightning, strong, chaotic winds, and torrential rains. However, it is the three major hurricanes that caused major destruction in the southeastern US that might make our journey more challenging.  So far, the reports by those on Active Captain are promising, but there are numerous damaged bridges and marinas as well as unknown shoaling caused by the flooding.

So the adventure begins again. . . . 

A surprise entering Kent Narrows!

The winds were calm and the skies clear blue as we departed the marina at 7 am this morning, but looks can be deceiving. As we approached Kent Narrows, a thick fog bank rolled out of the east. No sooner did we enter the channel, when visibility dropped to about 100 feet.  It remained that way for 3 and a half hours until we were further down the Bay. Pete was very happy with the new radar and how well it revealed boats, channel markers, and even birds.  Most boaters were smart and traveling slow.  We could see the fishing boats on radar, but their use of the planner boards were a surprise. Of course, there were a few boaters, who had to clue of navigation in fog.  We were passed within 75 feet by a 40-foot Fountain (speed boat) doing about 35 mph with no radar on-board.  As it passed, Pete yelled for him to slow down and tried to warn him.  When he didn’t appear to hear, Pete asked me to listen for a possible impact with the two boats about a quarter mile ahead!  Thankfully, there was no crash. Listening to the radio, there were other fools, who were also traveling too fast. Once the fog lifted, it the sun was bright, and a gentle breeze came up.

Almost as thick as pea soup!

Harris' Crab House

There is a severe weather front heading to the area late Monday early Tuesday.  Winds on shore will be 18-22 mph from the south.  However, on the Bay, those winds will be 25 -30 mph AND coming up while we are supposed to be heading down the Bay.  We had been out in conditions like that before and it is not fun.  To be beating into the wind and waves is slow, exhausting, and messy both outside and inside the boat.  Instead, we chose to dock at Spring Cove Marina in Solomons, only a few slips away from John and Betty until it passed. 

Re-entering the fog bank
further down the Bay

When the fog cleared we were able
to see these hazards more clearly!

  Once secured at the dock, Pete and I had a few chores yet to complete before we joined Betty and John for dinner on board SV ANDIAMO.  Dinner and conversation was very enjoyable.

Once back aboard PEKABU, Pete and Bailey took a walk and we called it a day.

~~~ /) ~~  K & P