Week 3 ~ Georgetown to St John's, SC

Sunday 10/25/20 ~
Carolina Beach, NC ~ Day 2

     The rains started around 4 am. By 7, it was raining hard and radar shows heavy rains training this area of the ICW for a good part of the day. Hence, we decided to stay put an extra day. There were lots of people out in the rain catching waves when Pete took Bailey for her morning walk.
    Pete had a work project, so he took care of it today to free up helm time tomorrow. He also moved our reservations for tonight in Myrtle Beach to tomorrow. I did a little work on the blog, but will wait until the photos are settled, probably tomorrow or Tuesday. Pete cleaned the hull. Looks great!
     We had a beautiful breeze and comfortable temps for sleeping.

Monday 10/26/20 ~
Carolina Beach to North Myrtle Beach, NC
Today:    52 miles       9.8 hours           ICW ST Mile:  346.0
Total:    615 miles     84.9 hours

     Winds shifted coming from the north. Pete checked the weather at 4 am. The temperatures dropped so we had to close up. Woke 7 to heavy overcast, temp 59 and that cool breezes. We we underway by 8 am as were most of the boats that moored around us.

The rock ledge showing in Snows Cut

     The current was against us and tide was so low as we traversed Snows Cut, that the rocks on the shelf were visible. That's a first for us. The iPad is becoming more of a frustration. It keeps losing the signal, so more and more it has us on land, going in the wrong direction, etc. Today, we really need it as we were transiting some of the most challenging inlets: Lockwood's Foley, Shallots, and Little River Inlets. The depths are ever changing due to storms and currents.

Impressive Speed!

     The wind and currents were kind as we headed south on the Cape Fear River. We hit 9.9 mph! If we were heading north right now, we would only be doing 4 mph.

     There are no docks at Southport Marina, only the bulkhead as they prepare to rebuild. They have removed all the damaged boats and dock from when Hurricane Isaias had a direct hit on Southport.

South Port Marina without docks

      We came through Lockwood's Folly at dead low and bumped twice. Pete called out a warning to the boats behind us. The smaller boat cleared, but the larger sailboat got hung up and had to wait for the rising tide.

The sandbars east of today's passage
 low tide Lockwood's Folley Inlet

    Passing through Holden Beach, the partially sunk fishing boat has collapsed, with parts of the super structure sticking out further into the channel. Thankfully, they are now marked. The two derelicts at the dock are almost gone below the waterline.

     We had no problems in Shallots or New River Inlets other than AquaMaps going crazy and freezing. We've been through here before so local knowledge was helpful.
     The currents were ever changing due to all the little and big inlets, but we pulled into North Myrtle Beach Yacht Club around 3:30.

     Hurricane Zeta is the latest named storm to hit the Gulf states. This makes the 4th hurricane in 3 months! Those folks have been so battered! Unfortunately, once it makes it to the Atlantic on Monday with winds 30-35 mph just off shore, we have some planning to do. We had hoped to do our Georgia jump near the full moon. Right now we will be at least 4 days past it. We continue to monitor it closely.
     Neither Osprey Point nor Georgetown marinas have space for tomorrow. We think we will stop across from the ramp, 3 miles south of Osprey and drop anchor. Pete will be able to get Bailey to shore.

Tuesday, 10/27/20 ~
North Myrtle Beach, NC to Bucksport, SC
Today:    32 miles        5.7 hours           ICW ST Mile:  377.0
Total:    647 miles      90.6 hours

 

   We left Myrtle Beach around 10 am as we are doing only 4 hours today. The plan was to drop anchor just south of Osprey Marina. That means that Pete would have to dinghy in the dark for Bailey's 9 pm walk. Instead, we were able to get dockage at Bucksport Marina. It a very nice, quiet place. Campground had about 10 camp sites, currently about 1/4 full. Spoke to one woman. They were looking for a quiet spot and this was perfect.
     I was able to walk about 2.5 miles while Pete read. Once back I worked on some photos. There is no internet here. I plan to walk again tomorrow before leaving.

Photos from ICW ~ too pretty not to capture!

    Once the sun was going down the mosquitos descended with a vengeance. We closed up, but then I went hunting and killed over 40 mosquitos down below! . . .AND I still missed some!

Wednesday, 10/28/20 ~

Bucksport to Georgetown, SC
Today:    28 miles        4.0 hours           ICW ST Mile:  402.9
Total:    675 miles      94.6 hours

Fall on the Waccamaw River

 
   We decided to leave at 8:30am, catching outgoing tide. Pete has a conference at 3 pm so we will be docked by then. Digital signals out here on the Waccamaw River are low at best. 

 

     I am fascinated by the water plants in the lower end of the river. Today, I got a good photo of the air bladders that keep them afloat.
     We were only passed by 3 snow birds boating south. However, we did hear that the Socrastee Bridge closed as of 10 am indefinitely due to mechanical problems. I fell sorry for those boaters north of the bridge. It only has about a 4-foot clearance.
     Bob423 (Sherer) revised his track at Foley's Inlet due to Pete's and some later boats reporting bumping in shallow water on the tract. The Waterway Guide by Bob423 is really worth following on Facebook.  It has taken the place of Active Captain, which was bought out by Garmin. They totally destroyed it, as most of the followers predicted. The BIG question is why?  It had such a tremendous following and the databased were huge. Resources covered not only navigation, but recommendations on anchorages, marinas, products, problems, access to land for walking and/or dogs, bridge heights, and the list goes on. Bob423's page is succeeding in filling that void.
     We docked at Georgetown Harbor around 1:30. Pete had to prep for conference so I walked down Front Street. Lots of folks eating outdoors, walking or touring. There were very few empty storefronts. I did 2.6 miles enjoying the architecture, quaintness, Halloween decorations and tree lined streets unlike anything we see up North. 

Front Street, Georgetown

Fungus Among us!

Designed by Mother Nature

     Before heading back to the boat, I bought fresh shrimp from Independent Seafood. The fresh shrimp was yum!
     Hurricane Zeta made landfall near New Orleans as 1 mph short of a Category 3 hurricane! She quickly downgraded to a fast-moving tropical storm. She will affect this area tomorrow. We reviewed the Passage Weather forecast for tomorrow. With winds 20-25 on the nose and with higher gusts, we decided to stay put. Thankfully, the marina was able to accommodate us.

Thursday. 10/29/20 ~

Georgetown ~ Day 2
    

     The winds were substantial today. Weather reported steady winds out of the SSW at 22 gusting to 35 mph. One boater reported on Facebook, gusts of 43mph over at Georgetown Landing, where there is a much longer fetch. Gale force winds with 12 foot waves are reported just off shore. Glad we stayed put.. . .so did everyone else with the exception of 2 larger power boats, who left at first light, planning to make Charleston later today.  I was smart buying the fresh shrimp yesterday. The fishing boats didn't leave the dock today.
     Rains were predicted later today, so I walked earlier. I mailed a bill for Mom, then found a few new (to me) and interesting streets. There was an over-the-top, Halloween decorated home, with a witch on a leaf blower pulling a skeleton on an tombstone (like a water skier,) witches at the door, and the four horsemen: Conquest, War, Famine, Death and of course the Grim Reaper. Oh yea, there was also a skeleton trying to walk a pack of dogs who were also skeletons, but the leashes were wrapped around him!

Wonderful Architecture

I love the trees and the canopied streets

Halloween Decorations

The Winning Halloween Decorated Home is. . .

     Once Pete was through with work, I continued processing photos and was able to load a number of them onto the web. It is still a challenge as some of the tricks I have used for uploading and arranging the photos doesn't work.
     The winds were persistent all day, but the rain showered were only sporadic. We were lucky being east of TS Zeta's track. Those in her way had 3-5 inches along with the winds.
     Turned in early as it will be another early departure in the morning.

Friday, 10/30/20 ~

Georgetown to Isle of Palms, SC
Today:    54 miles        8.2 hours           ICW ST Mile:  456.8
Total:    749 miles     102.8 hours

     The winds persisted through the night, but changed to the NNW affecting our motion at the dock.
     We were away from the dock by 7:30 am. We fought the current all the way down river. We finally got a boost about 6 miles further down on the ICW.
     Gale force winds predicted again for just off shore. The remnants of Zeta and 2 other storms will continue to make off shore jumps unsafe until Tuesday the earliest.
     At the top of the Esterville Maxium Creek, we passed by working 2 dredges, plus a bulldozer and a work barge near the shore.

 

   We had 5 feet under the keel passing through the shallows around McClullenvillle. Came through before dead low so no problems. The large powerboat didn't follow our/Bob423 's track. He just about touched bottom. There was only one area very questionable just south of McClullenvillle.
     We were once again were treated to a show as dolphins played around and surfaced next to us. No matter how many times we see one, we get just as excited as he first time!

     We pulled into Isle of Palms Marina around 4. We were docked at the eastern end of the transient dock which is great for watching the small boats get launched and pulled and walking Bailey. The restaurant is closed for renovations. Pete was doubly disappointed. 1st - that he didn't get his damn good hamburger and 2nd - that the restaurant will reopen as Mexican and under new management.

Saturday, 10/31/20 ~

Isle of Palms to St. John's, SC
Today:    16 miles         2.7 hours           ICW ST Mile:  472.6
Total:    765 miles     105.5 hours

     We left the dock at 7:45. Leaving was interesting as the wind was blowing us into the dock. We were grateful that we were at the end of the dock. With the help of a line, we were able to back up and pivot away from the dock. The NNW winds of 15-17 mph and the outbound tide made it a quicker ride to the Ben Sawyer Bridge. On weekends, it only opens on the hour and half-hour between 7 and 9, then on demand. We planned on being there for the 9 am opening. We were about a mile from the bridge when she opened for a sail boat in front of us at 8:45. The bridge tender couldn't keep it opened, but said she would open after clearing traffic. We and a catamaran waited. Then she informed us that we needed to get closer to the bridge. Pete politely refused stating with this wind and current it would be dangerous. She repeated it again a few minutes later and the catamaran responded with the same. She finally conceded and opened at 9. Cutting across the Ashley River wasn't too choppy and we made good time...once again thankful that we were traveling with, not against the current.
     All the times we have traveled through Elliott Cut, we have never caught it at slack tide...except for today. We have either crawled or flew depending on the current which can reach 4 knots!
     E and crew were there to welcome us at St. John's. We were given the last available dock. When I went up to pay the bill and get the keys to the loaner car, Steve was surprised that it wasn't back yet. We were waiting when Steve came over to explain that it had been loaned out for our time slot by mistake. E offered to drive Pete to the airport for our car rental since we had dinner reservations for 5:15. Everything worked out.
     As there were no reservations left for inside dining when I made the reservations yesterday, we were seated outside. Being away from the water, the temperature drop and wind wasn't a problem. The appetizer of Crab Deviled Eggs was scrumptious. Pete had his Damn Good Hamburger while I had the delicious Salmon. The Pluff Mud Pie was a chocolate mousse pie with Oreo crust. It was lite, not too sweet and unbelievably good! We know why The Fat Hen is considered one of the best restaurants in South Carolina!
     Once back, we prepped for tomorrow's drive to pick up our car in Maryland and tried to make it an early night.

~ ~ ~ /) ~ ~ K & P

Week 2 ~ Chesapeake, VA to Carolina Beach, NC

Sunday, 10/18/20 ~

Atlantic Yacht Basin, VA to Coinjock, NC
Today:    37 miles       6.0 hours            ICW ST Mile: 50
Total:   215 miles     36.6 hours

     Dropped lines around 7 am. The skies were blue with puffy clouds, calm winds and temps in the low 60's. 

   This part of the ICW is a pretty run. Initially the North River from the ABY Marina is straight, but below the first bridge, she begins to wander.

Stumps in the early morning mist

 

   The traffic on the water was light, especially as it is a Sunday, but we not complaining. You know…Those Sunday drivers, ummm boaters!
     We were smart in initially planning not to cross the Albemarle Sound today! Winds closed the Alligator Bridge for a couple of hours this afternoon.
    Once a Coinjock Marina, fueled, then docked all the way down, at the first slip from south. MV TROUBADOUR came in a few hours later and docked in front of us. They were unsuccessful trying to do the loop. The Erie Canal was closed, a bridge was out of service for 6 weeks & Covid has closed the Canadian border.
     The aromas were drifting down to our boat all afternoon from the restaurant. We gave in and opted to have a stuffed flounder dinner there this evening. Once back, the mosquitoes sent us down below.

Monday, 10/19/20 ~ Coinjock ~ Day 2

     Knowing we were not moving today, we relaxed. I did 2 loads of laundry. When I returned to the boat, Pete had finished up with work and was practicing his casting again. Catching was not an outcome today. Thankfully, he has gotten into the science of fishing and the sport of casting. It is so much better then standing around waiting for a bottom feeder to nibble on the bait.
     Our mail package arrived this afternoon. When Pete went to retrieve it and settle up the bill, the harbor master was just getting off the phone with the Alligator River bridge tender. The bridge has mechanical problems and will be closed indefinitely. We should check before leaving in the morning. We also checked out eastern route through Manteo, 17 hours! We would have to get a marina in Manteo to break up the trip. Bailey’s bladder isn’t that good!
     I worked the photos for the blog, but couldn’t post them as there was absolutely not Wi-Fi down at our area of the dock. Of course, the marina keeps all the big boats, who have their own internets close to the Wi-Fi antennas. Hopefully, with the upgrades coming, they will address this. I won’t hold my breath.

Tuesday, 10/20/20 ~

Coinjock to Belhaven, NC
Today:    91 miles       14.7 hours            ICW ST Mile: 135
Total:   397 miles      51.5 hours

 

     We were up before first light so we could leave at 7am. It was foggy with very poor visibility, and temps in 70’s. Pete called the Alligator bridge tender shortly thereafter. They hope that they can do a “soft opening” at 12 noon. 

    We, and the other 2 boats we we re traveling with, made it to the bridge with 3 minutes to noon, just as the fog began to lift. The bridge tender was very patient with all the boats calling in for an update. It took until 1:20, but the bridge was finally opened. Some boats had to anchor and waited over 25 hrs. There were a total of 24 boats that passed though the opening. Quite a few people posted the opening on Bob423’s Facebook page. We are in the photo courtesy of the boat behind us. Debbie Faidley Wicker is from MV SBEBA out of Annapolis Yacht Club.

PEKABU's next through
the Alligator River Bridge

    As we traveled down the Alligator Pongo Canal, I spotted 4 eagles, 2 kingfishers, a flock of barn swallows drinking from the canal as well as hundreds of them flying over the marshes hopefully, making a significant dent in the mosquito population! I was caught off guard when I spotted 6-7 wild turkeys in a field. I have never seen them on our trips.

     Since we were hungry, didn’t want to deal with the darkness nor wait until we made it to dock, we had dinner of franks & salads. Definitely a smart choice.
     Darkness descended as we arrived at the bottom of the AP Canal. There was only a 1/4 moon, with spotty clouds. So yea, it was dark, but the stars were amazing where the clouds had cleared. I wish tomorrows meteor shower was tonight. We could had appreciated it here in the darkness.
     Greg, the harbor master, was waiting to help us dock at 8:50. He still has 1 more boat to come in tonight. We will be staying here for 2 nights so we can chill after today’s long travel.

Wednesday, 10/21/20 ~ Belhaven ~ Day 2

     Today was for a few chores, but mostly relaxing. Pete power washed the boat. Boy, did it need it after being on the hard under a tree for work up at Haven Harbor. Our neighbors from MV HIGHWIND stopped by to say hello and ask some questions about the power washer. He was very impressed. Beth and I needed to do some food shopping, so I spoke with Greg. If we could leave right now, he would take us over and would wait. Beth and I felt that a half hour would be plenty. I went directly to the deli only to have her take 20 mins to fill my 3 requests. Each of the 3 items had to be retrieved from the fridge and the new selection opened for the first time. I finally grabbed 2 packages from the product selection due to time. I was 10 minutes later than on planned. Between the two of us, we filled the huge trunk of Greg's car. Thankfully, no boats arrived before we returned.

     Once back the groceries needed to be put on board. Man, does it look good! Food was put away and I ate the lunch Pete prepared form me before I returned.
     He sat up above and head while I posted blog It was the first time on updated version that I had to post photos. It was extremely frustrating and challenging, but I finally figured out the drag and drop, but still have plenty of problems. It took the better part of 4 hours just to place about 40 photos. It should have been about 90 minutes. Hopefully, I will get better at tricking the software.
     After dinner, we just chilled.

Thursday, 10/22/20 ~

Belhaven to Morehead City, NC
Today:    75 miles        9.5 hours            ICW ST Mile: 203
Total:   472 miles      61.0 hours

     We were up and out by 7. Greg was already at the marina and helped us turn around at the dock.
Pete had conference call and some work so I had more helm time.  

Classic Beauty ~ MV JUSTICE out of New York

     I love Adam's Creek, but it was too overcast for photos. Just before Morehead City, the sun peaked out.  While heading down the creek, we got an email form Jim and Lisa of SV SEAFORTH.  They will be in River Dunes for the next 10 days and wanted to know when we might be by.  Unfortunately, we just passed it on our way to Adam's Creek.  Hopefully we will meet further down the ditch.

     At Morehead City Yacht Harbor we docked at fuel dock and topped off tanks. We didn’t need to move as this is where we will spend the night.   MV SHEBA was docked behind us,  Pete was able to thank Debbie for the photo of us at the Alligator River Bridge.

PEKABU hanging out with the big boys!

These flowers were
growing all over a stump

   After dinner we both fell asleep. We were supposed to make phone call to family and watch the presidential debate. We will make the call in the morning and read about the debate. It must have been the fresh air poisoning.

Friday, 10/23/20 ~

Morehead City to Mile Hammock, Camp Lejeune, NC
Today:    42 miles        6.9 hours            ICW ST Mile: 244.5
Total:   514 miles      66.9 hours

     We could sleep in because the strong current won't be favorable until 10 am. We left at 9:40 because the tide had changed in the marina. That was a real stroke of luck!

     The Offshore Powerboat Association's Chrystal Coast World Championship Races began today and the first heat began at 10 am. We were the last boat to cross the Inlet for the next hour! Two USCG small boats, the marine police and the harbor police, the race committee boats, and the increasing flock of observation boats were crowding the water way. The races are held in the inlet today through Sunday, from 10 am until 5 pm! For the next 4 hours we heard boats inquiring for possible reopening of the waterway.

 

Warship 50

    As we passed the shipyard, there were 2 very curious boats with long arms at dock. They were Elon Musk's payload retrievers. The hydraulic arms apparently were being refitted or repaired. It is obvious that Musk has a real sense of humor. After all he did send one of his Tesla convertibles, with a waiving mannequin astronaut at the wheel, into space. The names of these ships are GO MS. TREE, GO MS. CHIEF and BIG STONE LEADER. There was a Naval “Warship 50” also docked, but it put out to sea at the 11 am opening in the race.

   

     I was at the helm as we approached Brogue Bridge. There were lots of fishermen north of the bridge, Most of them were pulling the anchors as the tide was beginning to turn. Those south of the bridge, looked like they were going to stay.

Magnificent Beauty ~ MV EAGLE from Newport

Adding to Nature's artwork

Shallow waters of Bogue Sound

     While at the helm I saw speeds between 5.2- 6.8 mph with 10 minutes of 7.4, south of Bogue Inlet. Pete, while at the helm, saw mostly 7.8 with a few high 8s and one 9.2!
     I was surprised to see a USCG small boat stopped in the middle of the channel. Once we and a few other boats passed, one of the crew tossed an orange float that their black lab jumped overboard to retrieve. Most of the crew helped him/her back into the boat. The dog took its place on the bow while they headed on north.

Clash of the currents

Not so pretty water ornament

Homes on the ICW

Tiny House on island around Swansboro

    

ICW Mile Marker 240

   Brown’s Inlet was well marked and the newest of Bob423’s Tracks downloaded AND it was high tide, made it non-exciting coming through Camp Lejeune. We could see the waves breaking on the shore. We could also hear Warship 50 and Warship 5 (an aircraft carrier) warning ocean travelers to keep clear as they were running exercises. Just south of Oslow bridge, we saw then heard 2 air boats on beach. They got much louder as they backed off. Helicopters and Osprey planes were active above the base all afternoon. They must be part of the exercise. Just before the bridge we saw the new radar/ lookout & communication tower. 

Target practice range across the ICW

Newly cut Inlet at Camp Lejeune & strong currents

Pete visits Jim on
MV BLACKTHORN

     We anchored with 7 other boats. MV BLACKTHORN and their friend from BILLY JEAN were also anchored. Pete stopped by and invited them for dinner onboard PEKABU tomorrow at Carolina beach.
     Periodically throughout the afternoon, we heard gunshots, helo’s and osprey’s as well as the air boats leaving and returning to shore.
     It was a beautiful sunset as the sun peeked out from behind the cloud bank. AS it got darker the helo’s and the osprey flew low as they headed to land in the field behind the trees. They become airborne to return to the aircraft carrier or base.

One of the reasons I love being on the water!

     By nine, things had quieted down. It was a great night for sleeping.

Saturday, 10/24/20 ~

Camp Lejeune to Carolina Beach, NC
Today:    49 miles       8.2 hours            ICW ST Mile: 295.5
Total:   563 miles      75.1 hours

     The dog walked, dinghy hoisted, anchor light downed and put away, anchor up and underway by 8. Skies clear with a few clouds, temps in the low 70"s with high humidity and breezes light.
 

   We were the first to leave the anchorage, but apparently the rest were not far behind. We followed Bob423's tracks through all the recontoured inlets with no problems.
     Today is a beautiful Saturday. Everyone who has a boat must have been on the water. I wouldn't be surprised if we saw anywhere from 300 to possibly 500 boats. We were passed by countless boats heading north to the Surf City area, decked out in flags, obviously for a Trump water parade.

     Wrightsville Bridge only opens on the hour and is 5 miles from The Figure Eight Bridge. If not timed properly, which happened, we had to wait 45 minutes for the next opening. It was here that the rest of the anchored boats in Mile Hammock, caught up with us. There were 11 boats waiting for the noon opening, when it opened 9 minutes early once an ambulance crossed onto the island. I guess this way the regularly scheduled opening wouldn't be delayed or interrupted by the ambulance transporting the patient westbound off the island.
     As the boats proceeded through the bridge, other boats, who have no problem with the bridge clearance, also joined the line. The 35-foot open console with 4- 400 hp engines crawled in front of us. He even slowed further while we were trying to clear the bridge as we were last in line. Then, he even stopped to talk with a north bound boat with at least 12 other boats in the narrow channel between marinas. As we started to pass him, he apparently got insulted and finally hit the gas!
     Boats in this area of the ICW have no problem passing boats at speed and within 10-15 foot away! Many times one or two on each side of the boat simultaneously.
     The regulator went to trickle so Pete, on Gerry & John's suggestion, turned the engine key to off, while the engine still ran and then turned the key on. All the instruments reset and the regulator returned to bulk load for charging the batteries.

Moon over Carolina Beach

    We grabbed out reserved mooring at Carolina Beach around 4. Since Jim and Sue, MV BLACKTHORN, we coming to join us for dinner, I got thinks prepped.
     Conversation over appetizers and dinner never lagged. Before we realized it, it was already 9 and Bailey need to be taken to shore. We said our good-byes hoping to meet up later. They are staying put tomorrow due to the anticipated rain. We head out, unless the weather is poor.
     We are thankfully once again, that there is a nice breeze for sleeping.

~ ~ ~ /) ~ ~ K & P