Southbound ~ Week 1~ Kent Narrows, MD to Belhaven, NC

Monday, 9/19/22 - Kent Narrows to SH Zahnisers’s, Solomons, MD
Today:      55 miles      8.2 hours      S/M —
Total:       55 miles      8.2 hours

     The dog was walked, the engine started, the windows cleaned, the cockpit almost set, the lines removed and our good-by hugs to Karen and Randy, MV SPECIAL K, our dock mates for the past few months. Skies are perfectly clear, temps in the low 70s and the winds are from the SSW at 5-10. It was 8:15 and we are on our way. . . Cruise #10!

Kent Narrow's Bridge

     We had a slight delay at bridge #1, Kent Narrows. All summer they have been working on and off the bridge. It was only a short 10-minute wait once we called the bridge. We had the last of the current for the 3 hours to Poplar Island. We were cruising at 7+ mph. Winds increased for a short while to 10-15, but as usual, they were “noserlies.” With an 8-hour day, we can’t tack under sail and make good time.

Only commercial traffic
we saw all day

           The Bay was rather quiet and hazy due to the humidity. We were only passed by one freighter, two power boats heading south and 4 sailboats (under sail) and a tall ship heading north. In all our trips I have never seen a ship unloading at the natural gas terminal north of Solomons. 

     Today we did. We wondered how much the company has to pay for the 3 tugs that are docked in Solomons and appear only to be active when the LNG tanker is docking, unloading and departing the terminal. Those three mooring balls near the terminal, we finally learned that they are used by the tugs during the offloading.

 

 
The LNG Tanker at the terminal and its lighter heading back to Solomons

     We tied up at Zahnisers’s around 4:15. Pete and Bailey stopped to talk with the owners of the American Tug, forward if us on the dock. Once Pete and Bailey were back, I was still finishing in the cockpit, when the couple came over to say hi. We looked at each other and said, “I know you!” We had met Donna and Ed, SV DEE GEE IV, a few years ago in at Jekyll Island. During dinner they provided sage advice about the 2 marinas we were hoping to use while we journeyed through Georgia. One was now completely private while the other silted in and could no longer take deeper draft boats! Following their advice, we had a long and uneventful day to Kilkenny and our first venture into Georgia’s notorious waterway. They are enjoying their, new to them, American Tug  It was so good to see them. I wish we had more time to visit.

 
     As usual, by first days’ end, we are tired. All that last minute prep takes a toll and today’s cruise is the decompression. Looking forward to a good night’s sleep!

Tuesday, 9/19/22 - Solomons to SH Stingray Point Marina, Deltaville, VA
Today:     57ish miles      7.7ish hours     S/M —-
Total:         112 miles         15.9 hours

(These are guesstimates. I forgot to take the day’s end readings.)

     When we woke, the temperature is reported to be 64, but with all the humidity, it already feels much warmer. Skies again are clear, but the light breeze is out of the NNW at may be 5-7. Donna helped us the cast off as we departed around 8. They will be heading north and home, while we head south.

 

     
Leaving Solomons

Track into
Stingray Pt Marina  

Smith Point Light

     The Bay is pretty calm, and we caught the tail of current all the way to the Rappahannock River. Cruising 50+ miles at 7.7-7.8 is wonderful!

     This is is the first time we are stopping at Stingray Point Marina. Pete did the calculations, and we make a little better time by stopping here rather than Deltaville Marina, which is around the peninsula and further inland. It is a cute, protected marina. It is one of 3 marinas sharing the same entrance. Apparently, they monitor the entry as the harbor master hailed us as we entered the harbor. We docked in a very skinny slip, in front of the screw pile light house that is used as the marina office. Once in the slip we needed to split the electric as our slip only had a single 30-amp plug. Between the humidity and the bugs, we were glad to have the AC.

     Knowing that we will be in Norfolk tomorrow, we tried to get together with Rob and Alexi, They now have an apartment in downtown Norfolk, blocks from the Waterside Marina. Unfortunately, Alexi is in NYC with her mom right now, but we are going to try to get together with Rob. He will be teaching a MOB course for the sailing program at Nautilus at 6. He also has a few students doing independent studies class this summer and he has meetings scheduled later in the evening. Hopefully, we dock around 4 and can meet up.


Wednesday, 9/21/22 - Deltaville to Norfolk, VA
Today:      62ish miles      8.4ish hours      S/M 0.4
Total:        174 miles          24.3 hours
(From today’s readings I was able to complete the guesstimates)

     We were up and out by 8. We had calm conditions, temps in high 60s, and high humidity. Entrance buoys confusing as second reds along the barrier peninsula. We almost ran aground. Coming in yesterday, it was easier to interpret the different buoys.

 
Departing Stingray Point Marina

Wolftrap Light

   The current has been serendipitous and very fortuitous for us the past few days, but today was the best! We averaged 7.8 mpg until 1/2 mile from bottom of Bay. Near the York River we increased speed to 8.4 - 8.6 down to Red #1. That’s where the current change occurred. Slowed to 6.8-7 as we crossed over to the Elizabeth River. Then we caught the incoming current the entire trip to Waterside Marina! The only other time we were so lucky was our final leg home for our first cruise in May of 2011. SVs BRUNELLE, ANDIAMO and we headed north from Antipoison Creek near Deltaville. We caught the start incoming tide, and the winds from the SSW enabling us to make a 8-hour 2-day trip at 7 mph into a single 14-hour day motor sailing at 8+ mph for 113 miles!

Calm waters as winds change & Traffic on the Elizabeth River 

Construction of the Hampton Rhodes Tunnel Expansion

   We spotted our first pods of dolphins at the base of York and the Bay. Sighted 2 more pods before entering the Elizabeth River. I know we have seen hundreds of dolphins on our cruises, but it always such a treat!

 

It is a Naval Air Station also. . . .

     Since we have to pass, we always check out the ships docked at the Naval base. There were 2 aircraft carriers close to each other, but they were quite different. After some investigation on the different architecture of the two aircraft carriers, and with the help of the logo on the larger one, Pete identified it as the HMS QUEEN ELIZABETH, the flagship of the Royal Navy. She has a beefier and more modern presence. Both towers are impressive as is the arrays that sit upon them. Most unique, at least for me, was the part of deck runway curled skyward for fixed-wing aircraft launchings.

  

HMS QUEEN ELIZABETH, her insignia and her jump deck forward

US and British aircraft carriers sides by side ~ very different!

 
Usual sights along the River (the star on the ship is not)
  

     Once docked, we met up with Rob. Though brief, we enjoyed our visit and look forward to a longer visit next time.

 

 

     As the sun set, I took twilight photos as the subjects were great. We haven’t been here at this marina in about 15 years. They sank a lot of money to redo the marina and the waterfront! We are also just across the river from the dry dock at the Norfolk Naval Yards.

 

 

 
The drydocks are impressive at twilight 

     We will check the winds for tomorrow prior to leaving in the morning. Right now, Norfolk is due for higher winds earlier in the day than Coinjock. The harbor master said there is space if we need to stay. We are hoping to make it to Coinjock before the late afternoon wind increase courtesy of a hurricane just west of Bermuda.

Thursday, 9/22/22 - Norfolk, VA to Coinjock, NC  ~ 2 Days for Fiona
Today:      49 miles      9.5 hours      S/M 50
Total:      223 miles      33.8 hours

     All tracks for Hurricane Fiona keep her well offshore, but her winds will definitely affect water travel. 40-50 mph winds will be just offshore, 23-40 mph winds will affect Virginia and the Carolinas’ ICW. Gale force winds are predicted from the NE by 5 this evening.

 
     We made sure that we were casting off the dock by 7:30 so we could make the 8:30 opening of Glimmerton Bridge and beat the daily RR bridge opening around 9. Lots of folks have had very long waits for the Norfolk Southern RR bridge. It is remotely controlled from Atlanta and sometimes it doesn’t reopen after the train and there is no way to contact the controller! Today it was no problem for the 4 boats traveling south on to the lock.

 
New Bridge under construction

North Landing River north of the Lock

     Skies were clear, breezes light, but freshening out of the SW as the day progressed, and temps climbed to 90.  

Fishing for crabs

   At Great Bridge lock, we had to tie up to the eastern side due to paint maintenance on the western side. Thankfully, we had our longest lines set to go and the lock crew was able to wrap them around the large 2-foot bollards set back around 8-10 feet and back to us. We made great time, clearing the lock at 9:45, but then waited for the opening of the bridge at 10. With weather conditions deteriorating towards 5 and timing, it was better to fill up at Atlantic Yacht Basin. Unfortunately, there were 2 boats ahead of us for fuel plus other boats coming in for maintenance and repairs. The harbormaster did a great job handling all of us. We finally were on our way by 11.

Brown water due to tannins

 

     We had allowed 3 beautiful yachts to get ahead of us for the bridge as they will pass us once through. One of the was the new Grand Banks 56 that cruises very efficiently at 25 mph! The Centerville Turnpike Bridge still has issues as the western side wasn’t opened. We all made it through with no problems. However, once though there was a dead head right in the middle of the channel. There were an additional 3

One of the dead heads

deadheads between here and the Pongo River Ferry dock/bridge. By the time we entered Currituck Sound, the winds had increased to 15 from the SSW. Dark Clouds were also coming from the NNW. Just as we entered the canal in Coinjock, lines were set for docking. As we approached the dock, the heavens opened up.

 
Sailing into the storm, the approaching storm 

and a tree that has remained in place for the 12 years we have cruised!

      It only took 10 minutes to tie up and for us, and the deck hands, to bedrenched to the skin. Another 10 minutes, the rain stopped and a rainbow appeared. Already, the temperature had begun to fall.

It was brighter for a moment
but was fading quickly

      When Pete went to the new office and ship’s store to settle up, he also stopped in at the restaurant for crab dip with their home-made chips and chicken/shrimp Caesar Salads for our dinner. YUM!

      We are staying here for two nights as the winds swung to the NE and will increase overnight into the 35+ range due to Hurricane Fiona. She’s a Cat 3 passing near Bermuda and heading into the Canadian Maritime. Don’t ever remember a hurricane hitting Newfoundland. We are also watching a developing system forming in the southern Gulf of Mexico.

     Met Dave from SV TOCINO. He and Josephine are docked behind us. They, too, are heading to Fort Pierce.

      Winds were close to 30 when we headed to bed. Glad we are staying put tomorrow!

Friday, 9/23/22 - Coinjock - Day 2
      

      We slept in until 8. Winds overnight were probably gusting over 40 and the temps have fallen. It was 54 plus a wind chill when we got up this morning! Great morning for warm oatmeal.

      Pete had a full day of work. I had no problem keeping busy. Some quick onboard chores, repositioning some items in the aft cabin, downloading photos for the blog, cooking chili for dinner with biscuits and baking 5 medium loaves of banana bread. The boat smelled wonderful and there are now four loaves of bread and another Chili dinner in the freezer. It’s great to have prepared dinners for those long days.

      Speaking of long days, there is another front coming through on Sunday and it will bring winds 15-20 right on the nose as we traverse the Pongo River. There goes our plan of heading to the Alligator River Marina Saturday and Belhaven on Sunday. With Pete still working, we prefer to do the AP Canal on the weekends due to the 3 hour dead spot for cell service. That was been a problem with work related calls in the past. Without stopping at the Alligator River Marina, it is a 12 hour+ day of travel. At this time of year, that’s the limit is sunlight and the day light continues to reduce as fall progresses. No problem with Belhaven’s registration. However, when I called River Dunes, Scott is already prepping for the possible hurricane. He’s not taking transients as all slips are booked for the hurricane, and he can’t take the risk that the transients get stuck in a slip that is booked. He put us on the waitlist (we are #8) and will call late Sunday or Monday morning once he knows what’s what with the storm. Pete then called Morehead City and was informed that once a named storm is announced, the marina, and numerous other marinas must be evacuated. Pete called back Belhaven and we will be there until Friday. Whew! We knew starting south 3 weeks earlier could be risky!

 
Saturday, 9/24/22 - Coinjock to Belhaven, NC ~ 5-Day Layover due to Ian?
Today:      77 miles      13.0 hours     S/M 
Total:      300 miles      46.8 hours

  

Emptying
the fish traps at dawn

   We were up and away from the dock by 6:50 and the sun was just rising. It looks like all 7 of us smaller boats that waited out the winds, left about the same time and probably with the same intensions as us - to get to safe marinas for the possible hurricane.

     It was cool when we departed. Temps were in the low 50s with enough wind to make it feel colder, especially on the open waters of Albemarle Sound. We were able to hoist the jib and gain .3 -.4 of a mile. Today every tenth counts!

     Once through the AP Bridge, the breeze died. As we approached the canal, Pete’s phone rang . . . In the dead zone! There was one small bar of LTE service. Pete was able to speak with Howie. He is proactively moving the cars in prep for the storm/possible hurricane. The he had a second call from is former walking buddy, Al.

      The journey down the AP Canal was beautiful. Diverse landscapes on a calm, sunny afternoon, but it is a long march. Pete doesn’t appreciate the scenery as he finds it pretty much the same. . .boring! Today, we lost time due to the current being against us the whole way. One if these days, we will hopefully be able to divide it between 2 travel days!

 

Different views from the Alligator Pongo Canal

      The breezes clocked around to the SSW by the time we were about halfway down canal. Once on the Pongo River, the sun set and there were small waves. Once we entered the breakwater at Belhaven, Pete called Gregg the harbormaster at Belhaven Marina and he met us on the western side of the dock. We tied up in the dark twilight around 7:40, glad that we’ll stay put for the week. We will settle things in the morning.
 

     Now that we again had cell service, we found that sometime, mid-afternoon, Depression #9 became Hurricane Ian. It is expected to become a Cat 3 in the Gulf and come ashore (current consensus) mid-Florida. We will be watching the weather carefully, but thankful that we are able to wait it out here.

Sunday, 9/25/2022 ~ Belhaven Day 2

     The boat rocked gently through the night. We were concerned that if the tide went out any further, we would be sitting on the bottom. When we came in last night we had 0.2 foot of water under the keel.

     After Pete walked Bailey, he went over to the eastern side of the dock and assisted Gregg turn around the 2 sailboats and the trawler so they could be forward exiting the marina. He then came to the boat and started preparing for us to move over there. As he backed out of our area, we dragged along the mud in the alley, He continued backing around and down into the docking area on the other side. There is a lot more water under the keel. We are in the innermost slip and very well protected. We also have the ability to tie lines to the pilings on our starboard side if we deem it necessary. Rechecking the forecasts and spaghetti models, it currently looks as the hurricane might come up through the pan handle of Florida and stay inland Wednesday into Thursday. However, Windy App has the costal ocean wind forecasts for the Carolinas and Georgia as gale force winds Wednesday through at least Friday. With us so prepared, there is a slight chance it might be a non-event, but we won’t take a chance.

     The afternoon, I spent working on the blog and photos while Pete read up in the cockpit. The WiFi here is OK, but while loading photos it sometimes gets fluky, It is nice up above, but it is the winds of 15-20 from the SSW that is keeping the mid-80 temps comfortable.

~ ~ ~ /) ~ ~  K & P