Sunday, May 30, 2021

Week 4 ~ Cruising North Georgetown to Belhaven, C

Sunday, 5/23/21 ~
Georgetown to Grande Dunes, Myrtle Beach, SC (3 Days)
Today:         47.0 miles          7.2 hours          ICW ST Mile: 357.0
Total:      1753.2 miles      212.3 hours


     We departed about 7:25. Breeze very light around 3 mph from the west with high clouds.  This is one of our favorite areas.  The shore is lined with Cyprus trees. Behind many of them are abandoned rice fields. The Waccamaw River mostly deep shore to shore, with only sporadic areas of civilization.

     I love searching for the "old ladies" that can be seen from the water.  They are the thick, broken, old growth trees.  I often wonder what history they have witness.  North and south of Green 91 there seems to be a larger number of these trees. We saw a few trees that had fallen into the water. It made me uncomfortable thinking of Pete having to travel this river, at night, with no moon light nor ambient light and with few lit navigational aids. He made this leg by himself 2 years ago and in almost total darkness.

 

 

  
My favorite tree (on the right) is still there!

     I was surprised to see dolphins at Red 71, about 13 miles up river. I would think the water would be less suitable for then due to fresh water that funnels into this river from the middle of the state. As for turtles, they were very few and difficult to spot, but I did try.

     There has been a remarkable change in the homes north of the Socastee Bridge. Homes here and in Myrtle Beach have been inundated by numerous floods in the past 4 years with waters 17 feet + above flood stage.  Water from across the state funnels through here before heading out to sea. A few homes have been refurbished and look like new, others have been raised and refurbished. While others have been knocked down and rebuilt elevated. Very few of the original homes remain as is or are now  boarded up. 

    Another remarkable scene are the small boat, weekend beach finders. Numerous boats anchor bow in, aft anchored out towards the channel, at beaches that emerge at low tide; music, floating pads with sun worshippers, drifters in tubes, others standing with legs in the water, swimming kids and dogs, games and BBQ’s on the beach. Looks like everyone is having a great time!


 
Weekend beach finders and parties!


    There is also substantial boat traffic; some polite, most not. I was setting lines before entering the marina, when a small sport fish decided to accelerate around a number of small boats, starting at our midship. Guess who hung on for dear life to the jib?!


We are at the end
of this dock

     We were docked by 2:30. Pete and Bailey went up to the office to present photo ID and copy of insurance which is required to stay at Grande Dunes Resort and Marina. We will be here for the next 3 days.

     Once back Pete returned to work while I sat above updated my cruise notes and read. We had a late dinner as we waited until Pete was finished the project.



     Monday, 5/24/21 ~  Pete started work while I cleaned.  We might have visitors later come aboard.

     We met with Pete's cousins for lunch. It has to be 20 years since we last saw them.  We had a lot of catching up to do. The company and food were wonderful. Sue and her daughter, Tara, live in the area and she recommended Ducatis Pizza, The pizzas and Caesar Salads were yummy. I had shrimp on my salad that were very plump, tender and tasty. Too soon, we had to get back. Tara could only take a short break from work. We plan to get together longer when we come back down in the fall.

 
It was a quiet afternoon once we were back. . . except for the honking of the geese!

     It was unusual for Pete not to have work once we got back.  I was able to work om the blog and bring the writings up to date. The WIFI here is wonderful.  I hope to download, process and upload photos to the blog so that they can be posted.  Fingers crossed.


      Tuesday, 5/25/21 ~  I was prepared to run to Publix for a short list of provision. Pete needed to do an oil change and asked me to wait. The oil change was simple and took the usual time. However, when Pete checked the fluid level of the engine coolant, it was unusually low. More puzzling is that it was refilled when the water pump was replaced 2 weeks ago; “curiouser and curiouser!” Pete checked 
everything and there were no leaks to be found. It will now be on his daily check prior to departure.

Chillin with her
therapy person
     After he took a quick shower and we had lunch, he offered to do the shopping so I could download and work on photos. The iPhone automatically puts them on the cloud and it is a process to the download them to my hard drive. It also doesn’t help that my phone was also defaulting to the “live” photos, which is actually a mini movie and since I shoot in HDR, the files are big. I think I have finally removed the Live Photo default. I transferred me and the computer to the front bunk so that Pete could work at the table. I’m finally in a grove downloading photos. Once done, they need to be converted from the iPhone format to jpeg. Then I need to process them and add them to the blog. With 400 photos 
in the current batch it will take a while to weed and then process, but I am determined.
     Pete’s bites are itching him like crazy, he thinks it’s from the Deer Flies, but I think the itches are from the Midges bites. Benadryl appears to help.
     We leave here in the mornings. It was a busy afternoon and evening.


Wednesday, 5/26/21 ~
Grand Dunes Myrtle Beach, SC to Carolina Beach, NC 
Today:             57 miles             10.5 hours         ICW ST Mile: 295.5
Total:         1753.2 miles     212.3 hours

The Inn at Grande Dunes
     We were up and out by 7:05. Temps already in the mid 70s, humidity was high and the breeze mild. That changed as the day progressed. Inland temps climbed to the mid 90s. At least on the water the highs only reached the mid 80’s. Of course the currents were against us for the majority of the day.

Golf Course getting watered

     As we traveled through the Myrtle Beach two things were remarkable. 
1) the amount of debris in the water. Tonight is the full moon, which increases the tidal range. 2) is the amount of new construction along the ICW. Sue commented Monday about the explosion of new builds over the past year.
 

   I like seeing the small trailer homes North of Myrtle Beach and I find myself annoyed when I see one of those McMansions built on waterfront property that used to house 3 or 4 homes; pricing waterfront property to the stratosphere. So far out of the reach or so many.
 
 


 

A very questionable new retaining wall

     Approaching Ocean Isle City & Shallotte Inlet, the current increased our speed, topping out at 9.3. Once we crossed the inlet our speed dropped to 4.8, but slowly climbed into the mid-8 as we approached Folly's Inlet. We were surprised by a small shrimp boat that headed out the inlet.
     We got lucky and caught the current for about 6 miles and reached 9.2 as we neared Cape Fear River. Pete checked and the current was at its high of 4.3 mph. I had called Southport Marina and according to their phone tree, fuel is available from 7 am to 5 pm daily. We prepped with lines and fenders, and approached the dock- No Fuel- currently installing the pumps. We will fill up in Carolina Beach instead.
    Once we entered the river, speed dropped to 4.8, but the 17-20 mph from the South helped. Our speed finally settled in the 6.5 mph range for the last 4 miles.
 
Shoaling just west of Snow's Cut
   Heading over to the cut, there were new areas of shoaling. With it almost being low tide, these areas were above the waterline. Heading into Snows Cut, we were able to see the rocks on the North bank about 4 foot above the water! As many times we have traversed this area, we had only seen about 6 inches of this rock. Seeing it today, we both wondered why a safety/warning float is not in place to mark it.

 

 
Views of Snow's Cut, the Dredge Merritt and the exposed rock!

     I prepped to a port side tie at the fuel dock. Unfortunately, between the winds and the current eddies, we needed to do a starboard tie. That meant a quick switching of the lines. Second attempt to dock was successful.
     We were able to grab a mooring ball. Our reservations via Dockwa were confirmed 3 days ago, but I wasn’t confident that one would be vacant. There has been a real problem finding dockage. Marinas are booked. Knowing this we have reservations right through the holiday weekend, just in case.
     Pete took Bailey to shore while I cleaned up and started dinner. Oh yea, there is only 1 ball empty and it is in shallower water. I’m glad we got in when we did.
 
The Beach at Carolina Beach
 
     Tomorrow we have to plan to be at Wrightsville Beach Bridge as it only opens on the hour. The only other bridge, The Figure Eight Bridge, opens every half hour. It isn’t a problem northbound, but southbound we need to time it on the hour as well since it takes about 40 minutes to get to Wrightsville at 7 mph.
 
   The temps are in the mid 70s and the breeze remains 10-15 from the south. It should be a comfortable night with the hatches open.
      We had to wait a good 40 minutes after sunset to see the Blood Moon. When it finally rose above the apartments, it was big, orange, illuminating the wispy clouds and beautiful. Taking a night photo from a rocking boat is not recommended, but I did try.
     Pete appears to have a topical reaction affecting his hands, and spotty areas on his legs and arms. He thinks it might be the soft soap he uses for showering. I have bar soap the he can use until we get back “home.”
 



Thursday, 5/27/21 ~
Carolina Beach to Mile Hammock, Camp Lejeune, NC
Today:     51 miles         8.0 hours         ICW ST Mile: 244.5
Total:    1804.2 miles    220.3 hours


     It was a great nights or sleeping. The temps remained in the high 60’s and the 10-15 mph winds stayed around for most of the night. However, this morning the midges did a number on me around my neck and head. The bites actually woke me at 5:50 am. I eventually pulled the sheet over my head. They are so small, they apparently came through the screen over our bed!
     Pete walked Bailey while I prepped for departure. Once back, he checked the fluid levels and the coolant was down again. It will be included in his daily checks. Since we are staying 2 days in Belhaven, we’ll get out the scope and see if he can find the leak.
     We were underway as planned by 8. Made both bridges about 15 minutes early. Definitely a beautiful day for a ride. Winds died as the clocked around from SSW to NW. Traffic on the waterway was fairly light.
     The hideous Pink house has been cleared out, renovated, is now now grey and white and for sale. They are asking $2.7 million for 5 bedrooms, pool, private peninsula, and of course fabulous water views!
 
The Infamous Pink house has been renovated and is for sale!
 
     One of the notorious shoaling areas is New River Inlet near Mile Hammock. Currently they are dredging the inlet and the ICW in that area.
 
Thunderhead forming
   While traveling earlier today I thought hear Vickie, SV OHANNA KAI on the VHS. We didn’t know for sure when they were crossing back to the states from The Bahamas. I figured it couldn’t hurt to text her and see where they are.
 
New River dredging and the missing Green 15 found!
  
    Anchor down at 3:45 and we had a quiet night. There were only four boats anchored tonight.
This cloud rolled though just north of our anchorage - So did the storms!



Friday, 5/28/21 ~ 
Mile Hammock to Morehead City, NC
Today:     41.5 miles           5.9 hours             ICW ST Mile: 203.0
Total:    1845.7 miles        226.2 hours

    Pete woke around 1 am with his hands itchy and slightly swollen. Thank heavens for Benadryl! No more Irish Spring Body & Hair Wash for him! He must have maxed out his tolerance for one of its ingredients.
     While hoisting the anchor, Pete couldn’t use the wash down hose as it has about 15 holes in one area. We were the last of the four boats to leave the anchorage. We met up with them for the 8:30 opening of the Onslow Bridge. No problem with depth when we followed Bob’s tracks. However passing the inlets, PEKABU definitely squiggled in the whirlpools. We made good time with the currents, usually doing about 7mph.
Lockwood Folly Inlet

Small fishing boat with local knowledge heading out to the ocean

Masonboro Inlet

Holden Beach

     The Coast Guard has been announcing shoaling on Bogue Sound between Reds 10 & 12. As we approached, the dredger turned south and passed us so he could once again dredge the green side of the ICW’s channel. The area we traveled, had 4.5 feet under our 5.5 keel. A second Corps of Engineers boat appeared to be doing soundings in and around the channel.
 
 

     We were settled in Morehead City Yacht Basin around 1:30. I took advantage of the calmer waters and wind in the channel to the basin to set lines and fenders. While working, a 25 foot off shore fishing boat decided to speed up just prior to our bow and made a 3 foot wake! I’m so glad I was sitting on the cabin at the time!
     Pete went with Bailey to pay the bill and spoke with the harbor master. Just today, the off shore fishing tournament was called off due to wind and possible storm conditions. We checked the Windy app and, though the winds are to be in the low 20s, we will be traveling with the winds at our back. By the time we teach Belhaven, most of the winds will be closed to the shore. The Windy app is new to us and we really like it. The map showed the wind speed and direction. With the ICW being so squiggles in places, it is to simple to see the direction.

Saturday, 5/29/21 ~ 
Morehead City to Belhaven, NC (2 days)
Today:     68.0 miles         9.2 hours         ICW ST Mile: 135.0
Total:    1913.7 miles    235.4 hours

     During the morning’s engine check, Pete was able to tighten the squeaky belt from yesterday. He also found the alternator’s pivot bolt was loose and tightened it also. Once again he added the 50/50 antifreeze to the engine. Then we were on our way.
     Temps in the mid 70’s, high humidity, and the winds were from the SSW at 20. We had the current all the way up Adams’s Creek, traveling between 8.3-8.9 mph. Once on the Neuse River we had the winds from or back. We traveled with the 1-3 foot waves until we made the turn north to Hobucken. Bailey was concerned with the rocking motion. She settled down once she was on the seat and wedged between me and the cockpit backing. Even her nails remained relaxed!
     Just before we entered Goose Creek, we were passes by SV OPA. He managed to sail all the way and pass Belhaven. The winds were favorable, but the storms were building just to our west. They managed to train just keep training to our west. We were prepared, but never got wet while underway.
     When we radioed Belhaven Marina, we were assigned a slip at the Town Dock. Most boats from yesterday chose to remain rather than run into weather. Those storms that trained past us really down-poured on Belhaven as well as the ones earlier in the day. Once secured, Pete went to talk with Greg, the harbor master. We had paid for the marina and it’s Amenities for 2 nights on Dockwa. Between the access for the dog to get off, fuel, laundry and shopping We needed to be there. He will refund 1 night, move us over tomorrow and extend privileges immediately. The next storm arrived about an hour later and were hit or miss the rest of the night.
 
     Sunday,5/30/21 ~ By morning the temps had dropped to the mid 50’s, from yesterday’s high 80’s, with winds about 10 and drizzles for most of the day.
 
   Pete made brunch reservations at Spoon River, a farm to table restaurant for 10:45, which was confirmed at 5:20 this morning. We walked over and we glad he did. They could only seat folks with reservations. The interior is really cool. Some of the original charm has been kept: The tin ceiling tiles, the crown molding, the display cases now house books, small antique crystal chandeliers, and original old pine floors, showing areas of previous paint colors. The also added a beautiful, old and massive Hutch. It must be at least 12 foot high and 8 foot wide. The ceiling and walls are an antique white, with modern, colorful and large art works. Most unusual accents were the additional lighting. Pendant lights hung from the ceiling with the wires hidden by paperback books the had pages folded, fanned and stacked to create unusual shapes. Intermixed were white paper globes and large cones. It sounds weird, but looked really cool! Oh yea, the food was really delicious! Since we didn’t have anything to eat yet, Pete asked for bread, which they didn’t have, but was given crackers, cheese and fruit which helped to tide us over. Pete had pulled pork with French fries and a biscuit while I had a mushroom, red pepper, cheddar and steak omelet. It was the perfect blend of flavors. We were surprised that neither home fries or muffins were available for the brunch, but didn’t miss it once we ate. There were some awesome desert offerings, but we were too full. Hopefully we will have one in the future. We will definitely come back on a future visit.
 
 
     We stopped back to the marina office and discussed moving the boat. Since Greg was heading over to Food Lion, he invited me along. Once back, he dropped me off at the boat.
     Pete had already emptied the aft cabin to begin his search for our leak. Since we had to move the boat, I did circles outside the marina so Pete could see if the leak was from the engine underway. Thankfully, it wasn’t, but there is water coming front the stern.
     Once docked, I headed to do laundry. (Single washer and drier, but the machines, detergent, and softener sheets are free.) I sat out in the porch, listening to music courtesy of Alexa. However, it was still cold and raw, but the roof kept me dry. It took me almost 4 hours as the drier wasn’t super efficient.
     Pete found the leak by using the scope. Apparently, the rudder post is leaking at the top, but not copious amounts. It and the mysterious depletion of the 50/50 antifreeze mix will be closely monitored till we get back “ home,” and fixed this summer.
     By dinner we were both tired, cold and looking forward to hot soup. We made it an early night. Coinjock is a 12 hour trip. If we leave at 4:30 we will have daylight up the AP Canal and be at the dock by 4-4:30.

~ ~ ~ /) ~ ~ P & K