River Dunes for another day

We planned on staying put today.  Pete has an extremely busy day with work obligations. He was up early for meeting prep.

I straightened up a little before picking up the keys to the courtesy car.  Stopped at the bank, the hardware store, where when I was checking out, I was asked, “What is the magic word?”  I answered, “Thank you . . . and possibly Happy Halloween?”  Congratulations, I won the right to pick out a candy treat. The last stop was Piggly Wiggly for some additional provisions.   I was back by noon.  Everything was stowed, and lunch made and cleared.  I then took some heavy meds for the migraine I woke up with and proceeded to crash for 2 hours.  Thankfully, it helped.

Pete finally quit around 4:30. Migraine is less, but hopefully, a good night’s sleep will help eradicate it.

~~~ /) ~~ K & P

Belhaven to River Dunes, NC

Today:  48 miles, 7.5 hours, ICW St. M 173

Total:   364.2 miles, 52.0 hours

Last night will be one we will not forget! The 6 pm news predicted a bit more rain in our area with some possible thunderstorms.  It would be followed by winds in our area of 18-20, starting in the SSW and clocking around to WNW later in the evening. Temperatures will also drop to the 40’s.  Doesn’t sound too ominous, does it? Hummmm….

As I mentioned, around 7:30 last night the final tail of what was Phillipe, came though and changed things completely. What started as a 20-minute, moderate rain shower suddenly added intense winds that were sustained for a couple of hours.  The boat in front of us clocked them at a steady 40+mph!   PEKABU, being the closest boat at the dock to the open water, was pulled away from the dock.  Though Pete tried numerous times to get the boat close to the dock, but not close enough to safely get Bailey off the boat for a final walk.  We had a halyard that kept banging despite Pete’s multiple attempts to tie it secure.  Also, with the winds coming to our aft port quarter, the chain that holds down the bottom of the enclosure constantly banged until heavy painter’s clamps were used to try to hold it in place. Pete managed to eliminate some of banging’s of the chain and halyards, but finally had to give up any attempt to walk Bailey after 11 PM.

 

The temperature dropped to 44 overnight, but with the wind, it felt like 35.  Pete dosed in the salon while I dosed in the bed. We both had on multiple layers. The constant howling of the wind and, without power/no heat, the night was cold, raw, uncomfortable and endless. We even placed a large towel over Bailey to make sure she also remained warm.  Yes, we have a generator, but it’s common curtesy not to use it in a docking situation due to noise for the other boats. P.S. I think we were both so overtired that we didn’t give though to the fact that the wind noise would have probably masked the noise for the other boats! I think we might have gotten a total of about 2 hours of sleep between both of us.

7 am arrived and it was time to rise and get underway. Pete has a big project that must be ready for tomorrow.  He needs to work most of the day.  I need to make a run to the food store and do a load of laundry, so the sooner we get to River Dunes the better chance we have of getting what we need done. The winds are supposed to continue to decrease.  As we are heading out, they are about 15-18 from the NNW and are predicted to drop below 11 around noon.  Let’s hope they are more accurate than last night.

After layering up well, walked dog (who did very well and never requested a walk last night), prepped to be underway, and left the dock at 7:45.  While walking the dog, the labradoodle and her “dad” from a boat further up the dock, joined Pete and Bailey for their walk.  “Dad” mentioned that he monitored Channel 68 last evening.  There was a captain requesting help from anyone with a motorized dinghy to get him out to his boat.  He rowed in for dinner just as the storm broke and needed to return to the boat.  It was too dangerous to be in a small boat in 40+ winds, so he had to remain on shore.  This morning, his sailboat had been blown into the shallow water and was laid hard over on its side.  It will be a major project to refloat since the winds once again blew the water out of the area. Hopefully, once it returns it will be more buoyant and easier to pull into deeper water.

As predicted, the winds did die down as the day progressed.  There were very few boat moving this morning.  Crossing Pamlico Sound was bumpy, but I finally found the right angle to cut through the waves.  By the time we were on the Neuse River, the winds were down to about 8 so it was an easy ride to River Dunes.

Entry into Grace Harbor, River Dunes

Some of the homes at River Dunes

One of the guest houses

The guest cottages

The pool and main house

Azaleas are still blossoming

As I checked in, I was able to catch up with the harbormaster, Richard.  Last fall he was limping, and his left knee was braced.  Apparently, the exercise and therapy didn’t work.  He will be having knee surgery in 3 days.  There has been some changes in the “Harbor Village.”  The general store is open, as well as the luncheonette and new exercise facility above it.  The cruiser’s dinner is now $18/person, OR you can order off the lunch menu.  Both can be charged to you slip.  Since it is Pete’s birthday, we decided to try the menu.  We both opted for the huge and delicious hamburgers (of course) with fries and chocolate hazelnut gelato for desert. Our server was very generous and gave us 4 scoops each!  YUM!!!

Grace Harbor Provisioning Store

The new luncheonette and gym

Grace Harbor at sunset

With very full bellies, fresh air poisoning, exhaustion from so little sleep last night and Pete’s intense concentration with work, we are calling it an early night.

~~~/) ~~   K & P

Staying Put in Belhaven

The winds and heavy rains arrived a bit earlier that forecasted, 3 am instead of 7 am . . .and we are safe and secure here at the dock.  The sound of the rain along with the gentle rocking of the boat lead to a great night’s sleep.  Pete slept until 8 and I didn’t budge until after 9.  I guess a couple of night of poor sleep finally caught up with me.

Pete had some work to catch up on, so he worked in the cockpit.  With the enclosure, it was bright and comfortable despite all the rain. As the day progressed, the temperatures dropped, and it became a bit raw.  I started a pot of chili for dinner.  I also went through all the photos from the cruise and prepped them for posting.  I planned to do it tonight, but that storm, which did get named "Phillipe" for a brief period earlier today, but was quickly downgraded. Well, tail end of rain and wind just arrived. No sooner did it arrive when all of Belhaven lost electricity.  Since this is on battery I will finish up tonight’s entry and hopefully post everything to the blog once we are at River Dunes tomorrow.

~~~ /) ~~  K & P

Coinjock to Belhaven, NC

Today:  89 miles, 12.25 hours, ICW St. M 135

Total:   316.2 miles, 44.5 hours

It was chilly sleeping last night.  Since we were the northern most boat on the dock, an extension was needed to be used for us to reach the 30-amp power.  We chose to run all systems but the heat, since that needs its own power source.  I grabbed an extra blanket during the night and Pete felt bad for Bailey, so he got up and placed a large towel over her as her coat was up in the cockpit. It was 44 degrees when the alarm when off.

  

We were up at 6 and departed at 6:30 am, just as the skies began to lighten. We were quiet, but the 5 other big boats preparing to depart were not. Dew on our windows were cleared, but unfortunately, reappeared shortly thereafter.  As we passed the 75-footer with thrusters starting to pull away from the dock, a crewman announced our position to his captain, but the captain decided to continue his exit anyway.  Thankfully, I was standing on the decks gathering all the lines and could direct Pete over to the western side of the channel.  Even as we were moving over, another large boat didn’t want to be caught behind our slow sailboat, so he decided to pass within 8 feet of PEKABU.

About three quarters of a mile from the marina, we entered a fog bank.  The large boat, with all it lights on in front of us, disappeared into the fog.  Thankfully, it was only a mile or so before the fog cleared. Since the dawn light continued to brighten, we were able to see patches of fog close to the tree lines, but not in the channel. Those five large power boats were history once we exited the fog.  As the sunrise continued to change in color and texture, we were passed by probably another 8 or 9 larger boats from the Coinjock dock over a 2-hour period.  There were only 2 other sailboats at the marina and we were the first to depart so they will probably catch up at one of the anchorages or marinas further south.

  

Once we entered Albemarle Sound, Pete raised the main and we increased our speed by 3/10 of a mile. It might only be 15 miles from Coinjock, but we never heard a request for the Alligator Pongo Bridge to open.  We were concerned, but finally heard a request when we were about 4 miles away.  We had no problems transiting the bridge opening when our time came. The Bridge is due to have maintenance begin in a week that will keep the bridge closed for about 2 weeks.

The breeze died for a brief while, then changed directions as they returned.  As Pete went to hoist the main again, it jammed.  It took a while for him to realize that the sail was loosely wound around the mast and had folded back upon itself.  Once he manipulated the sail and removed the looseness, the sail unfurled.  We increased speed by .5 miles.  Today, every little bit helps!

The blush of fall along the
Alligator Pongo Canal

While traversing the Alligator Pongo Canal, we were hailed by MV DANA O, a Norhaven from Wickford, RI. We couldn’t miss an opportunity to compare notes on Wickford.

Exiting the A/P Canal

At turns out that the sailboat that we have slowly been catching up to all day is the AQUINNAH from yesterday.  They opted to drop anchor in a creek further south than Coinjock. Shortly after speaking with (the Norhaven), AQUINNAH hailed us to give a heads up on a large deadhead in the center of the channel.  A little while later we discussed final destinations and the weather forecast for tomorrow.  A subtropical storm has formed in the Gulf of Mexico, has already crossed lower Florida and is now working its way along the coast.  It is going to meet up with a strong cold front tonight and will create some headaches from South Carolina north. 

AQUINNAH trying to beat the weather

"God rays" below and hints of blue
above the clouds  

We are heading into Belhaven and hopefully the municipal dock.  Pete had spoken with the Harbor master last night and he felt we should be good to tie up even at 6:30 pm. 

Feeling small below
the grandeur of these clouds

The skies decided to show some blue in between the heavy clouds and the sun played pee-ka-boo as it neared the horizon.  What a photo op!

Darkness descended before we approached the channel markers into Belhaven.  Thankfully, we have been here before and Pete is familiar with the entry to the municipal docks from when we were anchored, and Bailey needed to get to shore.  There are unlit, unmarked, pilings lining the entry.  Thankfully, at 6:45 pm, there was one spot left at the end of the dock. The boat in front of that area lit their running lights and came by to help us secure.  It turns out that the harbormaster was here logging in all the boats and was able to do us as well.

Beautiful, but ominous hit of the weather change to come!

Bailey and I took a long walk and once back at the dock we chatted with Mike and Tina from Ontario with their sailboat.  Pete joined us, but since all of us hadn’t eaten dinner, we went our separate ways to prepare dinner.  Ours was hot dogs, beans and hash browns, quick and satisfying after a long day. After relaxing a bit, we made it an early night after a long day, 89 miles!  And we can sleep in in the morning.  We are staying put so that the storm can pass before continuing our journey.

This cloudy day was bracketed by a sunrise and sunset that was beautiful surprises of moods, colors. textures, and intensity!

~~~/) ~~  K & P

Norfolk to Coinjock, NC

Today:  49 miles, 8 hours. ICW St. M 50

Total:   227.2 miles, 32.25 hours

Sunrise over the Navy in dry dock

Sunrise in Tidewater Marina
Portsmouth, VA

 We could take a little longer to head out this morning because we cannot pass through the Glimerton Bridge before 8:30 am due to commuter traffic restrictions.  It is five miles from Tidewater to the bridge, but we wanted to make sure we were there in plenty of time. Pete walked Bailey while I prepped for departure. The sun was rising as we exited the marina.  The air was cool, but not uncomfortable and clear. There was the usual traffic on the river: the ferry, barges and other cruising “snow birds” heading south.

Only a few cruisers anchored at
ICW St. M "0"

I love the scenery along the ICW!

We did good. We and 4 other boats had about 15 minutes to wait for the 8:30 opening of the bridge.  While waiting, the train came across the bridge just next to the Glimerton. Once it passed both bridges opened.  The Glimerton bridge keeper was able to announce once the bridge lifted vertically above 65 feet so the 3 sailboats could safely pass.

Entering the lock at Great Bridge

How far to...?

Waiting for the Bridge Opening

 I was really surprised that there are only 6 of us traveling the Virginia Cut, at this time. With the Dismal Swamp still closed, I just assumed that there would be many more boats traveling south on the only other inland cut.  The lock masters have always been friendly, and today was not an exception.  As we exited he wished us a great trip and will see us in the spring. He laughed when I said that “since we won’t see him until Easter, let me wish you a Happy Thanksgiving, Merry Christmas, Happy Hanukkah, Kwanzaa, and News Year!” and he wished us the same.

One of the 2 pairs of Eagles
 we saw today

Another species of
 large birds, but
misnamed a "Hornet"

  We spotted a few interesting birds as we continued our journey through the Virginia Cut.  There was a large flock of Canadian Geese coming in for a landing near the Great Bridge Bridge (No, this is not a mistake. "Bridge" is repeated twice in the title. )Lots of gulls, crows and Turkey Vultures, a Kingfisher crossing over the lock as we waited for the 2-foot tidal difference, plenty of F-16s Hornet  doing touch-and-goes, and a total of 5 Bald Eagles, two pairs in different trees, while further down one soared high above.

Through the lock and for the next 2 bridges, we followed SV AQUINNAH, a ketch with a crew of three.  Their hailing port was Odessa, Delaware, so of course we had to chat.  “Aquinnah” is the name of a sacred Indian hill on Cape Cod.  They didn’t get to say where they were from, but they are heading to New Bern, NC, moving the boat for a friend. It became obvious that they were not totally familiar with the boat.  They slowed for every major bend in the Cut, wandered back and forth across the channel, and speeds changed from 7 mph to 4.5 and everywhere in between.  While passing the flight zone for the Pentress, the Naval auxiliary landing field, not only were the jets doing touch and goes, but 2 small, Naval barges transporting crew and equipment were heading north.  AQUINNAH had to be hailed and requested to move to the west of the channel. We finally passed them and continued our steady cruising speed of 7.2 for most of the trip.

One of Two Naval barges

Graffiti on the the bridge house

Railroad bridge crossing
the Virginia Cut

A bi-level bird condo

 

Another small, fast Navy vessel

As we were entering Currituck Sound, we were passed by 2 additional Naval small, fast craft heading north. They are different than the intimidating ones by the naval docks.  These were only about 40 feet, camouflaged, with enclosed seating for 8 in high back seats with crisscross belts and an open cockpit.

Just before entering the cut to Coinjock, we were hailed by a tug and barge heading north.  He requested we stay far to the west of the channel even though he need to hug the red just ahead.  Pete took us to the west at idle, giving time for the barge to pass us.  Unfortunately, we went gently a ground.  Pete decide to let the barge pass before trying to free ourselves.  However, a 40-foot sports fisher obviously wasn’t listening to the radio nor used common sense when passing between the barge and us.  His wake bounced us off the bar and we were able to continue once the tug passed.  I still don’t think we should say thanks to that sport fisherman.

Martha photographed this
tree back in fall, 2010, but with
an eagle decorating its branch

Entering Coinjock from the North

We had reservations for Coinjock Marina.  It was a good thing.  We arrived at the same time as about 8 other boats. We were able to fill up with fuel before being directed to the northern most spot on the dock.  Two hours later there no space to be had on the dock.  It is a shame that Midway Marina, just across the channel only had one boat for the night. The prices are the same, but Midway Marina is a little “tried.”  I know that the restaurant at Coinjock Marina is a draw, but also with so many large boats, their fuel is probably, fresher (no sediment).  Bailey loves the large, grassy area for fetching the stick or ball and “nature calls.”

While I took Bailey for a walk, Pete was visited by Marty, of SV PEGASES, the boat we were docked near in Solomons. As I joined the conversations, it turns out the they keep the boat at Spring Cove and know John and Betty.  In fact, they were Trivial Pursuit partners at the marina. She and her husband are heading down to Palm Beach and then planning to jump over to the Abacos after Christmas.  This will be their 7^th trip over to the Bahamas.  They love it there.  Hopefully, we will continue to cross paths during our journey.

Pete was able to finish up his work and we had dinner around 6:30. After dinner I did more work on the blog, but didn’t get a chance to post.  Tomorrow will be an early start.  With a strong front coming through on Sunday, we want to be somewhere protected.  We have decided to leave just as the sky is lightening (nautical twilight is at 6:45 tomorrow morning.) We will skip the anchorage at the top of the Alligator Pongo River and head directly to Belhaven. It will be a long day with 12 hours of motoring.  Unfortunately, there is only 12 hours of sunlight, so it will be tight.  The good news is that the maintenance on the Alligator River Bridge is not due to start for another week, so we will have no problem transiting tomorrow. Next week it is scheduled to remain in the closed position from 7 am to 7 pm for almost 2 weeks! Yikes! 

Antipoison Creek to Norfolk, VA

Today:  59 miles, 8.25 hours ICW St. M “0”

Total:   178.2 miles, 24.25 hours

Bailey was walked, preparations for departure were completed, the anchor hauled, and we were underway by 7:10 am. We joined 4 other boats heading out of Fleets Bay. Clouds once again led to an unremarkable sunrise.  Once we resumed our southward journey, we passed 6 boats of the Menhaden fishing fleet, just south of the Maryland/Virginia boarder, close to the entrance of the Rappahannock River.

Between the wind and the current being in our favor for most of the trip, we once again made great time.  The winds were a bit more intense then yesterday.  The 2-3-foot waves came from our starboard aft quarter. However, there was another, longer wave that come from our port aft quarter. That one would roll the boat into the 5-6-foot trough. It made it quite a challenge to move around the boat.  Poor Bailey must not have felt to good.  She refused to eat anything or even move until things started to settle down around 2 when the winds dropped to 5-10 mph. Earlier in the day we averaged 8.6 mph. With the lighter winds and traveling against the current, we dropped to about 7 mph.

Can you find the 2 new fast boats?

Now can you see the scary naval boat?

 Pete had conference calls to make while we approached the Navy docks on the Elizabeth River, so I had the helm as we passed the most ominous, new, fast chase naval patrol boats.  There were two of them and they had to be about 50-foot-long, about 4-foot above the water, camouflaged, angled to be invisible and definitely built for speed! I guess you could say that they “looked mean and intimidating!”  

Working tugs on the Elizabeth River

Another use for the Elizabeth River

Around 3:30, we tied up to our assigned dock at Tidewater Yachting Center. Our dock hand informed us that the marina has a new restaurant and “there hasn’t been anything he has there that wasn’t really good!”  Unfortunately, I had dinner already prepped. Perhaps we will try it out on the return trip.  As Pete and Bailey went to settle up the bill, there were many dogie treats to be had.  Bailey was so excited to meet everyone and get her treats, that she was really terrible on her walk. This usually calm, steady, close walker, became a puller for the entire walk.  Pete did a lot of grumbling once they returned.  That grumbling intensified, when he went to bring up our ICW Chart book.  We finally identified something we left behind.  Both of us thought it was on board, but somehow, we must have taken it to the storage area earlier this summer when we were reorganizing. What we thought were the ICW charts are really the Bahamas books.  Pete quickly ordered a new one to be delivered to River Dunes.  I think we can make it that far without the book.

Sunset reflected on downtown Norfolk

The salt was rinsed off the boat and then Pete returned to finish up some work.  I cleaned up and started dinner.  The clear skies led to a golden cast to the buildings across the river.  As I took some photos, a bulk carrier photobombed my picture. 

After dinner, I downloaded photos and wrote more of the blog, but no time to post.  I have some minor processing to do to the photos. Hopefully, they will be done before we have good internet again.

Solomons to Antipoison Creek, VA

Today:  57 miles, 7.5 hours

Total:   119.2 miles, 16 hours

The unremarkable dawn

 We pulled away from the dock shortly after 7, towards the end of nautical twilight.  Sunrise was 7:24 am, but was disappointing.  Clouds obscured the sun rise.  The winds, which were out of the NNW 10-15 joined the very strong ebb current for a fast ride (at least for us!) We were averaging 8.4 mph while we had the current.  Once the current turned, we were only doing high 6’s.

Sunlight finally appeared as we left the cliffs
outside Solomons

We quickly felt the winds and cool temperatures on the Bay and the sun really wasn’t warming us.  It took only about 10 minutes to put up the enclosure and be warm and comfy.  I will never regret the frustration and lack of sleep while making it for our first cruise in 2010-11. Today proves the time was well spent!

As we crossed Fleets Bay, heading into Antipoison Creek, we encountered a large pod of dolphins.  We usually just see the arch of their beaks and backs as they surface. Today, the water was constantly agitated with their mating.  A few of the dolphins managed to get airborne! It was a rare treat and dazzling display.

The excited pod of dolphins

Dolphin putting on quite a show

There was only 1 other boat in the anchorage when we arrived.  She was about a 45’ steel ketch with a home port of London, England.  Her people spent a while on the beach.  However, once they returned, they pulled up anchor and headed further up the creek.  I wonder if they know something we don’t know?

Clouds above beach
at Antipoison Creek

 Antipoison Creek, off of Fleets Bay, is one of our favorite spots. Dan and Martha of SV BRUNELLE, introduced it to us on our journey north after our original cruise to the Bahamas in 2011.  This was the last stop for BRUNELLE, ANDIAMO and PEKABU before returning to our home ports and non-cruising lifestyles. It is easy access to the Bay, both to the north and the south.  The area is beautiful, the beach is fantastic, Bailey has a place to walk and run and I captured one of my favorite sunrises from here last year at this time!  The anchor was dropped abound 2:30 pm, which left plenty of time for Pete to complete work and me to bake 4 small loaves of banana nut bread.  Boy, did PEKABU smell great!  The heat from the oven also helped to keep the boat warm overnight as the temperatures are predicted to drop to 44 degrees by sunrise. 

Sunset tonight

After dinner, which was the leftovers from Sunday’s dinner with Betty and John…YUM!!!, it was decedent to watch TV while at anchor.  It has taken a tremendous effort and time commitment over the past year to get the KVH satellite system and the DISH system to work properly.  We had read all the information and we thought we had purchased the proper dome.  As it turns out, we had a bad dish and then a bad receiver. Both were replaced during our last cruise.  However, problems reemerged once back in our home port.  After many troubleshooting calls and emails, and eventually, a technician was sent to us doe what would up being a 4-hour visit.  It finally came to light, that the Annapolis area is in a “dead zone” for the satellites for the KVH 1.  They are too low on the horizon to maintain connection.  We eventually worked out a deal for the next size dome (KVH 3), which has no problems using and maintaining contact with a different set of satellites and providing uninterrupted coverage from Maine to Key West! We only have to call DISH to have the “home” stations changed for local service as we travel.

~~~ /) ~~  K & P