Saturday, June 10, 2023

Week 41 ~ Bucksport to Coinjock, NC

Sunday, 6/4/23 ~ Bucksport to Myrtle Beach, SC
Today:          31 miles          5.4 hours          S/M 346.0
Total:      1533.3 miles      258.6 hours


      Temps were in the low 70’s, but the breezes were out of the Northeast and skies were cloudy. We changed into our jeans shortly after we started heading north again. As the day progressed the skies cleared and the temperature rose into the high 70’s.

The tree-lined shores ~



The trees ~

 

 On the water ~

 

  

Mother Nature taking over  ~ 

 

     The ride to Myrtle Beach is interesting. There is a lot of recent developments in the past 6 years. Some of the developments are completed while others are continuing to build. More and more of the remaining greenways are disappearing.

 

The Small Cabins of Barefoot Landing

    Once again, the current gods we kind for about half the trip. Our disappointment came as we passed by Bryan Carbino’s home, just north of the Socastee Bridge. He wasn’t on the deck, videoing the boats passing on the ICW past his home for his Show Us Your Boat, Facebook page. We have only been videoed once in all our passings, but we always check.

 

     Once docked, we called Rita and Craig, our neighbors in Delaware for over 20 years, to let them know we arrived earlier than expected. After they picked us up, we had time to pick up prescriptions and stop by their lovely home, since it was just a short drive away. Afterwards, we headed over to Joe’s Bar and Grill, specifically to The Racoon Bar for dinner. It is named for very frequent visitors, Yup! Racoons. They put out stale bread on the specially built feeder and they come. So do the birds, but they wait their turn, giving the racoons first dibs. Dinner was good but the company better. We watched each others kids grow up. It doesn’t seem possible that our kids now have careers, spouses, and families of their own.

 
The Racoon Bar

     We will be staying here an extra day due to Pete’s work and the fact that Pete finally isolated the problem with the bilge only sometimes working. After trying many things, Pete finally realized that when not plugged into the dock, the bilge pump doesn’t work on just battery power. It is hooked up to the starter battery. This is separate from the house batteries which are huge, 8-D batteries. We have a switch to control charging to house, starter, or both. Unfortunately, it was mistakenly set for house batteries only. As a result, the starter battery is dead. It needs to be replaced. Spoke with Elisha. No problem for Charlie and her to take us wherever we need to go, before we head over to their home here in Myrtle Beach tomorrow.

Monday, 6/5/23 ~ Day 2 in Myrle Beach ~

     Pete was busy until 3-ish so I took Tillie for a long walk over to the lighthouse. She is walking a little bit better, so . . . I was able to take some photos around the marina.

 



     Elisha & Charlie picked up Pete, Tillie and me around 4. Quick stops to the pharmacy, auto parts store, and Food Lion before we continued to their home. Their home is beautiful and has a great, fenced-in yard. Tillie was in heaven! She ran in circles, here and there and back again for most of the time we were outside. Not only did we enjoy the conversation, delicious food, but also our new friends! They are part of our great I-Dock in Fort Peirce. The evening was over too soon as we had to install the new battery and put the boat back together tonight so we can get an early start in the morning. Tomorrow will be another long day.

Tuesday, 6/6/23 ~ Myrtle Beach, SC to South Port, NC
(Safe Harbor South Harbor Village not Morningside Marina Southport!)
Today:          41 miles          5.8 hours          S/M 311.0
Total:      1574.3 miles      264.4 hours

     Temps were in the mid 60’s, with light breezes and a scattering of clouds. It was impossible to spot the turtles. We can’t figure out where they are hiding. Today’s cruise was otherwise uneventful, except for the currents that were against us.



The homes ~

 



The houses big, small and unique

     It wasn’t until we were prepped to dock at Morningside Marina at Southport (our usual stop here in Southport) did I think to check the Dockwa reservation. Sure enough, I had booked the wrong marina, so we had to backtrack about 1.5 miles to the SH Harbor Village Southport Marina. One of the dock hands asked, “didn’t you just pass the marina?” So much for being unnoticed. The docks are new as is the houseboat used for the office. This is a very nice marina. Supposedly, the restaurant, Rusty Hooks Dockside Grill here is excellent. Since I already had dinner out, we might try it next time.

 

     Tillie and I appreciated a long walk to stretch our legs. This is a nice place to walk.


Wednesday, 6/7/23 ~ South Port to Mile Hammock Bay, Camp Lejeune, NC ~
Today:          57 miles          10.3 hours          S/M 274.7
Total:      1631.3 miles      274.7 hours
 


   Morning brought us smokey skies, temps in the lower 60 climbing to the high 70’s, breezes  later from the SSE. We caught the current up the Cape Fear River. There was a lots of water traffic at this time of the morning. We saw 2 ferries, a freighter, a survey boat, and a cargo ship on our way north. Another cargo ship came up the river, but at a very slow pace. Probably trying to time dockage in the Port of Wilmington, NC. Once we turned into Snow’s Cut, we had the current against us. This was a reminder that we would play “push me/pull you” with the currents all day. We had plenty of water to traverse all the inlets, though some of the inlets had creative paths through the deepest water, courtesy of Bob’s Tracks.

Traffic on the Cape Fear River ~



 

Snow's Cut and on to Wrightville Beach ~

 

 

 


The Inlets ~

 


     A good deal of the morning was checking the milage to our stops leading up to the weekend. This Friday, June 9th, starts the huge 64th Annual Big Rock Marlin Fishing Tournament in the Morehead City/ Beaufort, NC area. Dockage is a definite problem as will be traversing the area at the start, 9 am, and finish, 3 pm, each day until the end of the tournament, June 18th. After analyzing not only current, but also future travels from place to place, we finally agreed to Mile Hammock to Adam’s Creek north of Beaufort, to Belhaven, and then to Coinjock. That is 4, long, 8-ish hour days in a row. There is a weather front supposed to come though the Albemarle Sound area on Sunday with winds that would make crossing the sound “sporty.” Since we were so delayed in our travels, we are trying to get back to Kent Island sooner rather than later. We plan to lay over a day in Coinjock to catch up with work, the blog, chores and some time for relaxing. Reservations were made and we feel we have a good plan.

    Quite a few small, fast boats on water even though mid-week. Many of them drive like they would on 95 by leaving only 10 feet between us and them, AND they never back down on the speed.

    There are only two bridges that need to open for us. Timing is everything. It is no problem for power boats to make both bridges during the half hour. Unfortunately, sail boats, especially ours, only travel at approximately 7 mph without the effects of current. When heading north, we want to time our arrival prior to the hour mark. We arrived 20 minutes early. Wrightsville only opens on the hour. No way can we do the next bridge opening it in 30 minutes. The Figure Eight, 6 miles north, opens every half hour. Instead of cruising at regular speed, we back off on the speed slightly and plan our arrival about 10-15 minutes before the next doable opening. Heading south takes more planning. We need to make the hourly opening of the Figure Eight and time our arrival for about 45 minutes later. If we are late, we will sit in high current for the hour. So yea, we plan carefully.
 
 
New River 

Low tide and visitors on the sunken island

   
We had no problem with depth crossing the notorious New River Inlet, just south of Camp Lejeune, providing we stayed in the most current Bob’s Tracks. We arrived at Mile Hammock Bay a few minutes later to join 12 other boats and spent the night on anchor.

    I spoke with Heather. The air quality for the MidAtlantic area was listed as “Dangerous.” The smoke from the Canadian fires have made it to this area, reducing visibility to only a few hundred feet. The air is making it hard to breathe and the sky is orange. The air is so bad it has made the national news. Outdoor activity has been canceled for most things. It should be coming to this area in the next few days.

    Early evening saw the Marine Ospreys doing quick landings and evacs not far from the anchorage. It is really cool to see the planes so close and observe the rotors tilt from vertical to horizontal in flight.

 

 
   
Tillie did very well remaining onboard rather than going into shore. A boat near us, took their dog to the sandy beach area along the ICW just north of this anchorage. We never gave that option a thought. It a super area to beach a dinghy and to let the dog run, but it would also mean traveling the ICW in complete darkness for her final “walk” at 9 pm.

 

Thursday, 6/8/23 ~ Camp Lejeune to Beaufort, NC (Jarrett Bay Marina) ~
Today:          40 miles          8.5 hours          S/M 197.2
Total:      1671.3 miles      283.2 hours


     It rained a couple of times last night. But we did ok with the screen in the doorway. Temps were in the low 60’s so it was very comfortable for sleeping.

     We were the second boat to leave the anchorage. The area just north of Mile Hammock Bay, where a hurricane broke through the land barrier, there is now a sandy quarter of a mile stretch to the beach. During high tide a thin creek forms connecting the ocean to the ICW. Currently, there are no problems with depth. 

Two other boats waited with us for the 7:30 opening of the Onslow Bridge. The larger power boat held position close to the bridge, so close he needed to back up to avoid the swing bridge, even though the bridge tender requested we get closer to the bridge as it opened. When the other sailboat start moving, the power boat wouldn’t move. He stated, "the bridge wasn’t fully opened." We both needed to back down to avoid meeting by accident. Just north of the current bridge, we could see the progress with the new bridge under construction.
 
A Cape Dory sloop waiting for the Onslow Bridge both old and new

  
Burned out shell of a sailboat at Browns Inlet and the dredge on Bogue Sound

     Once again, the inlets were not a problem, nor was Bogue Sound. It was another jeans day with the temps remaining in the low 60’s, spotty showers, cold, with a raw, NE wind. The enclosure was appreciated once again.

     The skies began to clear as we were about halfway through the sound and the temps began to climb up to the mid 70’s. It felt a lot warmer due to the humidity.

     Closer to the inlet, we saw a more of the big fishing boats cruising the area, probably as a shakedown prior to the tournament this weekend.

     As we passed the main commercial dock, there were quite a few workers addressing various issues on the dock. It looks like it is getting a much-needed overhaul.

     Our reservation for tonight was with SH Jarrett Bay. When I called, I had little hope of snagging a slip. Since this is a working yard, they take very few transients. Thankfully, we are one of them. We arrived around 4 and was directed to the southernmost dock, behind a cabin cruiser. With the strong current pushing us north and the 15-mph wind pushing us towards the dock, there was no way to safely dock. The dock space was maybe 45-foot, but there was a perpendicular dock that came out into the creek that made this docking dangerous. The dock master OKed us to tie to the dock on opposite side of the T-dock, which is much safer, less stressful docking and will be no problem for departure in the morning. Electrical here is spotty, at best. With 50-amp service, we still couldn’t use the AC. As a result, we were not charged us for electrical. Thankfully, tonight temps are to be in the low 60’s.

     Temps remained comfortable once docked and the breeze was delightful. Pete was down below putting in 4 hours while I wrote up the blog up above. A beautiful, 40-foot cruiser was directed to the southern dock where we were supposed to dock. He and the dock hand had real issues docking. With the incoming current, he was pushed sideways into the pilings of those perpendicular docks, even with heavy use of the bow thrusters. The captain made the mistake of trying to dock with the aft to the current. The dock hand was working alone so he was glad I for the little help I was able to provide. I was able to keep the bow off the docks and away from the pilings until the aft was able to be brought to the dock.

     It was very dark at 9 when I walked Tillie. Beyond the dock (on land) there was no lights for over 1000 yards! With no moon, it was very dark. Mini flashlights on lanyards are a godsend!


Friday, 6/9/23 ~ SH Jarrett Bay, Beaufort to Belhaven, NC ~
Today:          60 miles          9.2 hours          S/M 135.0
Total:      1732.3 miles      292.4 hours


   It was a good night for sleeping with the hatches open. Tillie again woke and asked for attention at around 5:45. We were lucky. She was told to go back to bed. Surprisingly, she did and we were able to catch an extra half hour of quiet, before she demanded attention.

     The heavy fog mostly dissipated by the time we shoved off around 7am. Skies, however, remained overcast with a heavy haze and the smell of wood smoke all day. The smoke is from a 100+ wildfires raging in Canada. A few days ago, the New York Metropolitan area issued a “dangerous air quality” warning. Our kids and most of our family live in this area. Heather mentioned that she had maybe 50-foot of visibility when driving to work. Chris, who works primarily outdoors, said that numerous work jobs have been suspended until air quality improves. He reported that air quality numbers almost hit 500 ppm on his way to work. It has affected his breathing.

  

 

     Along Adams Creek, there is a good deal if construction, but the area to the east on the northern part of the creek, have not been developed. There are docks, but no permanent structures. Some lots have RV’s, camping tents or just parked vehicles.


     We were able to motor sail on the Neuse, which was great. Unfortunately, due to the wind direction, we had to take the sail down before turning into Goose Creek.

     There was a significant increase of smoke once on the Neuse River. Just north of the Hobucken Coast Guard Station, was evidence of recent fire. I saw 3 spots with wisps of smoke curling up. The last of which increased as we passed, and Pete saw flames erupt from the hot spot.

 

 

 

  


 

     We pulled into Belhaven close to 4. Greg is on vacation, but Linda and the owner are handling things while he’s away.

     I was able to borrow the loaner golf cart for the run to Food Lion. This is a great addition. In the past Greg would drive me (and/or any other boater that needed provisioning). I had planned to take advantage of the free laundry, but another boater did 3 loads (one after another with the single washer & drier.) I wasn’t desperate enough to stay up late to do the wash. There is a new second story deck over the marina office. What a great spot to catch the sunset. The deck and office are great gathering spots for a drink at the end of the day.

     A crew was working on the replacing the sea wall. When we were here in the fall, it was beginning to fail. The entire seawall, both sides of the peninsula will be replaced. This will be an improvement. Currently, the seawall construction is old and the supports extends into the water, prohibiting a boat to get closer than 18 inches from the dock. The marina supplies the big, round fenders so the boat is safe and secure, but it is still a challenge to get off the boats.

     With today’s smoke the sunset sky had a reddish tinge (but not anything photographic.)


Saturday, 6/10/23 ~ Belhaven to Coinjock ~
Today:          96 miles          12.6 hours          S/M 50.0
Total:      1828.3 miles        305.0 hours


     We were up at 5am in an effort to be underway early. By 5:40 we had cast of lines and allowed the wind to move us off the dock. When Pete went to put the engine into forward, the transmission ceased to work. Thankfully, the marina owner was up and checking things. He grabbed a dinghy, rowed to us, grabbed a line, and rowed back to the dock. The canal that the marina dock is on is about 40-foot wide. Once secured, Pete spent the next 90 minutes Rube Goldberg-ing a temporary repair.
 
Once we were secured to the bulkhead I looked to port and saw this abstract.
 Look closely and you will see windows and the slats of the balcony railings.
To the right is Pete's temporary repair to the transmission. Finger's crossed it works!

The barge behind us
     We said our thanks and good-byes again, and underway, making way by 7:15 with fingers crossed.

    Prior to the AP canal, we caught up and passed a tug & barge. He was only doing 5 mph to our 7. For us, passing him in the canal would not have worked. Too many unknowns along the banks. That 22-mile trip would have cost us and additional hour to our already long day.

 

 


     Once through the Alligator Bridge and on the Albemarle Sound, we were able to hoist the main sail, motor sailing on broad reach. Winds increased to 15+ from the SSE and we cruised at 8.2 mph for the better part of 2 hours. Sail came down once on the North River.

     For a good part of the day, the smoke was prevalent, but it came from the SE with the winds. These were not from the Canadian fires.

 
 
 

Smokey Sunset 




     I called Coinjock to let them know we wouldn’t be there until 7:30. We and a new Nordhaven 50 took the last open dock space by the fuel dock. Since we are staying an extra day here to relax, we’ll probably move in the morning. We should sleep good tonight. PS: That tug & barge came through Coinjock around 10 pm.

~ ~ ~ /) ~ ~   K & P

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