Saturday, October 7, 2023

2023 - 2024 Cruise ~ Week 2

Sunday, 10/1/23 ~ Great Bridge, VA to Coinjock, NC
Today:            36 miles            6.0 hours                S/M   50.0
Total:              245 miles          36.8 hours     
  
    We were fortunate that Amy, Brian and their new pup, Captain, were spending the weekend in VA Beach. They met us at the boat and we headed to the Sunrise Breakfast Shoppe. We knew it must be good as there were police cars, motorcycles and bikes in the parking lot. The food was delicious, but the company was better! Once back, we let the dogs play. Captain and Tillie are close in age (11 months), size (40-50 pounds), energy levels (crazy!), training issues (obeying only when convenient), and have amazingly similar markings. They both have black body, with white on their paws, bibs, mouths, back of neck, The also have some tan and black freckling on some of their white spots!

  
Amy with Tillie and Captain after all their play


     We said our goodbyes and prepared to get underway. Pete was maneuvering in the cockpit when he stepped awkwardly. He yelped as he heard something pop in his foot. He insisted that we get underway to make the 11 am opening of the bridge.


Views along the canal below Great Bridge

     Bridge tender on the Centerville Bridge anticipated our arrival and had it opened while we were still about 1000 feet away. The next bridge we had about a 10-minute wait.
     I finally convinced Pete to ace bandage his foot. It is swollen and point sensitive. After about 2 hours the bandage was more uncomfortable than the injury, so it came off.
     Surprisingly, we only saw 2 boats north bound and were not passed by any south bounders. Perhaps the reason is due to the current lock closure due to high water, which we heard as we were leaving at 11.
     We made good time motor sailing across Currituck Sound. We average 7.5 mph. Just prior to entering the narrowing channel above Coinjock, we suddenly slowed and the rpm pitch changed. Thinking we caught something, we slowed and reversed the engine. Nothing appeared. We then dropped the sails, ran momentarily aground on a ledge. Once we were underway, we were back to normal. As we were waiting to dock, a motor cat attempted to dock based on dock had instructions in regard to the current. They had a difficult time as it apparently changed in the past 10-15 minutes. Pete thinks we “ran into” the north bound current and that was the culprit.


We have seen this tree in the water, just before entering Coinjock, since our 
first trip in October of 2010, but the eagle who was perched there has long since flown away.   

     We docked around 5, refueled, walked Tillie, and spoke with Stacy & Justin. We headed to dinner around 5:15. It was an enjoyable evening sharing stories with new friends. Oh yea! The Prime Rib was totally awesome, too!
     We made it an early night as we needed to depart by 7. It is a full 12-hour, 87 mile day to Belhaven.


Monday, 10/2/23 ~ Coinjock to Belhaven, SC
Today:            87 miles            12.0 hours                S/M  136.0
Total:             332 miles          48.8 hours     
 
 

Sunrise along the canal leaving Coinjock

     We were up, dog walked, engine checked, and underway by 7:10. Winds were light at 7-10, with temps in the low 60’s. The temperatures climbed as did the winds, hitting 16 mph out of the NNE as we crossed Albemarle Sound. We were one of 3 sail boats and 1 beautiful, old, wooden, 50-foot Huckins making the crossing. With the winds coming from behind us, having the main up gave us about a third- to half-mile push. With a small course correction, PEKABU, surprizingly, self-tended and brought the main to starboard. We’d prefer to have done it ourselves, but we now have one less tack. We were able to motor-sail through the bridge and up the Alligator River. Winds slowly increased and we sailed most of the river at about 8 mph. When we made the turn onto the canal, the wind shadow was visible on the water due to the scuzz on the water. Just before we turned I spotted another eagle. That makes 5 so far this trip.
Tillie looking for 
the jets
   The F16’s came out to play this afternoon and could be heard, and sometimes seen, for a good part of the afternoon.
     I defrosted the refrigerator while underway. Using the inverter, I plug in a fan and sat it inside the fridge. It defrosted in less than an hour! After cleaning, I turned the fridge on, placed the fan inside without the shelves, and closed the doors. Within an hour, the temperature was at 42. Within 20 minutes, everything was back in place! That is the fastest time I ever completed defrosting the refrigerator!
     We motor-sailed  for 4.5 hours, from the mouth of North River to the top of the Alligator Pongo Canal. I spotted another eagle in the trees. We started down the canal doing 8.3 mph.

The larger white scuzz line is formed by the wind shadow
from land as we made the turn onto the AP Canal

What is left of the 2010
 "Giant Beaver Pile"
     The 8-foot tall “giant beaver” mound we first saw in 2010 is now primarily a bunch of assorted brush rooted amongst the a 2-3 foot high remnants of decaying trees.
     About midway through canal, we dropped  speed to 7.8. While I was at the helm, I was passed by a north bound tug and barge. It doesn’t happen often, but I always find it disconcerting to be passed by something so wide in such a restricted area. The gods rewarded me with the sighting of a deer along the bank. We’ve only been lucky to spot deer may be 4 or 5 times on our previous 24 trips through the canal.
 
 


Views from cruising down the Alligator Pongo Canal

     For the past few years only the upper 15 miles of the canal was a dead zone for cell service. This trip, we were shocked to find we had no cell service from about 5 miles north of the canal until we were about 3 miles from the lower end, but then only 1 bar of LTE. When Pete spoke to the marina, the call was intermittently breaking up. He thinks that with the end of 3G, this area has no other service than the new SOS.
Sunset on the Pongo River
     The winds had dropped to about 10 once we were on the Pongo River. We pulled into Belhaven Marina about 7:20. It was a very high tide, but no flooding that we could see. Tillie could barely wait for us to complete our docking. She was even more agitated that we had to avoid the new sod and hurry the 300 yards to the lot across the street. She only made it to the gravel at the entry to the marina, but was greatly relieved.
     All in all, it was a great day of travel. To have both the wind and current in our favor from entering Albemarle all the way to Belhaven.


Tuesday, 10/3/23 ~ Belhaven ~ Day 2

     Pete’s foot seems to be doing better. Walking very carefully works. He wants to pass getting it evaluated, at least right now in the hopes it is healing.
     I took Tillie for a 2+ mile walk around Belhaven. I love looking at homes, both new and old, for their individual charms. There were some great opportunities for photos.
 
 

 


 


   



 

  


     Pete washed Tillie. She was due for a bath, but returning from the walk, her white paws were no longer white. Somehow, as she was all shampooed up, she escaped the boat and had the zoomies on the newly sodded grass. It was a real challenge to catch her. I had to wait until she tired. Once she was back on board, Pete finished the bath while I headed over to do laundry.
     We spent most of the day with Pete working on work projects, while I focused on photos and the blog.
     Tomorrow will be a short day to anchor on Back Creek near River Dunes, Oriental.


Wednesday, October 4, 2023 ~ Belhaven to Broad Creek, Oriental, NC
Today:            40 miles            6.3 hours                S/M   175.0
Total:             372 miles          55.1 hours     

     Another nice morning for a walk. Temps were in low 60’s and breezes light. Ophelia pass through here brought winds and about a 2.5-3 foot surge. Greg said the newly sodded lawn was under 1.5 foot of water. This morning the town had a truck & crew picking up the debris piles in front of homes.
     We were underway around 7:45. After breakfast, I stayed at the helm while Pete checked the engine compartment. When he did the engine check yesterday, he removed 2 buckets of water (not fuel or antifreeze) from the drain pan. This morning, he was determined to find the source. He found what it wasn’t. By process of elimination, culprit is the seal on the rudder post. Since it is not an emergency, we will deal with it until we arrive in Ft Pierce.
     By 10:25 today, we had only 2 boats pass us since entering Norfolk. This is definitely a first. There was only 1 other boat besides us for the last 2 nights at the marina in Belhaven. Greg said it was unusual and probably due to Ophelia hanging around for so long. We are probably 3-4 days ahead of the first wave of cruisers. A third boat passed us on the Neuse River prior to our turn into Broad Creek (River Dunes area).


The overcast skies as we headed into the Hobucken area.  
There were scars from the spring fires we spotted when through here in the spring.
  
     Once anchored, we enjoyed the peacefulness, beauty and quiet. It was great for reading and relaxing. The total cloud cover that came from the NE as we neared Hobucken, stayed until around 5. It left as it came - a solid sheet. I had hoped to capture a pretty sunset as the clouds broke, but it was a simple sun setting.
     When I let Tillie out into the cockpit around 9, I went forward, away from lights in the cockpit. Betty, you were right. The stars, Saturn and the Milky Way were spectacular!


Thursday, October 5, 2023 ~ Oriental to Morehead City, NC
Today:            33 miles            5.5 hours                S/M   203.0
Total:             405 miles          60.6 hours     

Sunrise on Broad Creek
     Surprisingly, Tillie didn’t ask to go out during the night. She had only used the cockpit pad to piddle, and that was at dinner. She was up as the sky brightened (around 6:30), whimpering. I tried to get her into the cockpit, but she refused, confident, I’m sure, that she could convince me to take her to shore. Much to her disappointment, we started the engine and pulled up the anchor. She finally was totally successful on her pad. . . And a much happier puppy!
      We cleared the creek by about 8:10. Temps were in the high 60’s and an 8-10 mph breeze from the NE. We had a nice ride up the Neuse River with the breeze on our stern. As we surfed the 1-foot waves towards Adams Creek, we were passed by a trawler. Wow! We’ve been passed 5 times since Norfolk, over 175 miles north!
     We have a number of friends in Myrtle Beach. We contacted Pete’s cousin, but found out she just moved to the NC mountains. So…we had been making plans to meet up with our former neighbors, Rita & Craig, who have a home in MB and were to be there until the 10th. Unfortunately, they had to head back early. Since it had been a while since I spoke to Steph, my sister who lives near Charlotte. She responded immediately to my text. She and Mike will be in North MB this weekend! Sorry Elisha & Charlie. We will have to wait to meet up on I Dock.

 
. . .from Adams Creek

This home was lime green last time we passed

     We made great time coming down the Adams Creek canal. Once we exited the Neuse, we were “crusin’” between 7.8 and 8.3 mph until the current change below the Rt 101 bridge, almost at the exit of the canal. As we approached the bridge, a low-flying, “heavy” helicopter flew over PEKABU. Not only were we directly under its shadow, but we also felt sone of the air disturbance. Once in the open waters of Harlow Creek, we watched an obviously local, shrimp fisherman head into shallow waters to our starboard and spread his outriggers. We thought we were alone until a 70-ft plus sport fish was about 20 feet off our port stern quarter beginning a slow pass. It would have been nice if he announced himself, but it was also a reminder that we must always be aware of our surroundings. 

  We docked at Morehead City Yacht Harbor around 1. We needed to take in fuel after the crew comes back from lunch. I took Tillie for a long walk. Pete caught up on work. He also was able to modify our float plan so we can get into MB earlier on Sunday. That way we have plenty of time to meet up with Steph & Mike. I was able to get the loaner car and do the grocery run. Once things were put away, it was time for dinner. Never got to my to-do items. Too tired, so we both called it a early night.





Friday, October 6, 2023 ~ Morehead City to Mike Hammock, Camp Lejeune, NC
Today:            22 miles            6.6 hours                S/M   244.5
Total:             427 miles          67.2 hours     

     It must have poured during the night. Everything was wet and there were lots of puddles. However, skies were clear, temps in the low 70’s, and breezes were mild out of the ENE.
Morehead City Yacht Basin, where
 the "big boys" stay and, on occasion, us too!
     Since we wanted to catch the current, we waited until about 9:15, so that when we backed down the long dock, the current would not be a factor. At this marina the transients are usually docked on the face of the main dock. There is a shelf about 45-foot from the dock, so transversing must be done with it in mind. Waiting also enabled an easier backing out as the other 2 boats had already departed. The current had already changed as we reentered the ICW. The good news was that we should have had less than a mile of current against us until we crossed the inlet. We love traveling with the currents, especially with a cruising speed of 7mph. Unfortunately, the currents didn’t catch up until we were a good 5 miles onto Bogue Sound.

Today's sights heading to Camp Lejeune ~


The railroad bridge always in the up position, the errosion of the bridge fenders, and a barge carryine 3 light, shallow work boats. (The 3rd is long ways between the other two.)



 

Sights within Camp Lejeune ~
 

 


This is the area where there was a breakthrough from the ICW to the ocean due to a hurriaine. 
Mother Nature is now beginning to rebuild itself.

     It was a day of go fast/go slow due to the numerous inlets. I was at the helm for the final half of Camp Lejeune. We were concerned as we passed Brown’s Inlet as we had 28 minutes to make the 3 pm opening of Onslow Bridge. That’s when I saw our speed increase from 5.4 to 8.3! No problem making the bridge! When I hailed the bridge tender at 2:50, he said the repair crew was there and it might be an additional 45 minutes before he could open the bridge. Told him we were standing by and would be doing circles until we heard back. Instead, I practiced “maintaining our station” (dancing with the currents and wind to try to keep position.) After only 10 minutes, the tender called to say he was starting to open the bridge - WooHoo! There were only 2 skinny areas, which were no problem following Bob’s tracks. The breakthrough on the island just outside the anchorage caused by a hurricane about 5 years ago, seems to have silted in and is slowly building back up.
     By 3:45, we were one of 3 boats anchored and again, no other southbound boat passed us. There were quite a few small fishing, pontoon and run-abouts on the water. I guess a lot of folks are taking advantage of a semi nice day and part if the long weekend.
     We sat up above and read. After dinner we enjoyed the cool temps and gentle breezes. We were gifted with a beautiful sunset.

 

Tonight's magnificant sunset


 Saturday, October 7, 2023 ~ Mile Hammock to Southport, NC
Today:            67 miles            10.7 hours                S/M   311.0
Total:             494 miles          77.9 hours     

     The low for the night was 68, skies remained clear and the breezes - light. It was a great night to sleep at anchor. Unfortunately, the alarm went off at 6 and we were underway by 6:45. With our plans to meet Steph and Mike in Myrtle Beach, we modified our travel, making today a long one. Yesterday, we had no viable options than Mile Hammock. We had hoped to add an additional 2 hours of travel by docking at Harbor Village, but she was not interested in transients. So today we are looking at 67 miles, with a number of smaller inlets, 2 bridges, one of which only opens on the hour, and catching Snows Cut and the Cape Fear River against the current.

Sunrise with the light of Saturn above the saliboat
 (It is not an imperfection in the photo!)

     The skies were lightening as we pulled anchor, leaving us brightening skies and good visuals as we entered the ICW. Just below New River, we were passed by 2 tugs with a dredging barge, dragging a pipeline train between them. About a half mile behind them was a second tug and barge with more dredging equipment.

 

 
The "Dredge Train" with the pipes covered in seaform. The second dredge barge 
followed about 1/2 behind.

     Sunrise dawned clear with just a few clouds. As the day progressed, so did the breeze and clouds. By noon, we had a few scattered sprinkles.

 
New River Marina decorated with pumpkins at sunrise

 
Tillie chillin'
     The current gods were kind earlier this morning. We cruised at 7.5-8.3 for about 3 hours, before they changed their minds. We made the 11:30 Figure Eight Bridge, but that meant we had 90 minutes to travel the 5 miles to Wrightsville Beach. Since normal cruising speed (7mph) takes about 40 minutes. There is no way we could make the noontime opening. Rather than circles for 40 minutes near Wrightsville Bridge, Pete reduced our speed to about 4 mph, so we “walked” to the bridge and avoided making the slow donuts.
SV BRUNNELL's
"memorable island"
Wrightsville Beach
    Once through Wrightsville, the current was against us until we crossed the Carolina Inlet. The current stayed with us, through the Cut and onto the river. Now, with the current against us, but the wind behind us, we were able to do 6.9-7.0 mph down the River.
     The weather changed, too. When we pulled anchor, skies were clear, winds calm, and humidity caused a haze. By 9, we saw more and more puffy clouds with breezes freshening to 8-10 mph. There was also a strong smell of smoke from a local wood fire. As we went through the Figure Eight Bridge, clouds covered the sky and winds increased slightly. The smell of smoke continued. Within the hour, clouds darkened and the winds of 13-15 became raw. It sprinkled on and off for about 30 minutes. Once we were entering Carolina Beach, the clouds were breaking up. By the time we entered the river 30 minutes later, they were gone! The air was now clear. This is the first time ever, I was able to see the cranes on the Wilmington docks 3 miles upriver!
 
 
Snow's Cut 

     As we were approaching SH Southport Marina, there must have been 20 small fishing boats hanging out in front of the marina. There was also DNR, police, sheriff’s office, TowBoat, SeaTow and Coast Guard small boats, with more fishing boats coming out of Dutchman’s Creek. We found out later, there was a fishing tournament by the park on the creek and we arrived at the finish.
 



The tournament fishing boats, a wave from a Coastie and a fisherman with his catch

    Once docked, Tillie couldn’t wait to find land. She enjoyed running free on the open space near the creek.
    We read up above until sunset. The winds died and the no-see-ums were out in droves.
    Only one boat pass us this morning, and 2 larger yachts this afternoon on the River.

 
  

*****
     Interesting travels and pretty pictures aside, it is important to note that news today was devastating. We awoke to find the horrific atrocities man can commit on others. Hamas initiated a war with Israel with hundreds of civilians killed and many more injured. So many thoughts and prayers….

*****

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